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01 May
Acne Cleansing General Hydration Wellness

Face Masks and Skin Problems

May 1, 2020 Posted by:
Categories: Acne, Cleansing, General, Hydration, Wellness

Now that wearing a face mask in public is mandatory in South Africa, we thought we would look at skin problems that arise from wearing a mask and how to avoid them.

Masks creates a moist, warm environment for your skin, since your exhaled air is being trapped. So it will also trap a build-up of sweat and sebum on the skin under the mask, leading to inflammation, rashes, and even acne breakouts. There is so much advice out there about this topic right now – some advise using strong ingredients like AHA/Glycolic Acid, while some advise against it. I think the focus should be hydration, with a small amount of exfoliation. I don’t want this to be a plug for OptoDerm products, but we have been saying for a while now that your skin barrier is the most important aspect of your skin. It is what shields us from airborne bacteria, viruses and other pathogens. The pH of the acid mantle is low for a reason – to protect us. So, here are some issues to consider:


Wash your face before & after wearing a face mask

Since wearing a mask traps oil and sebum, make sure to clean your face before wearing a mask and after you remove it, when you arrive home. Ideally you need to be using a cleanser that respects your skin barrier and not one that destroys it. Many foaming cleansers impair the skin barrier and are high pH. Our micellar cleansers respect the skin barrier, are low pH, and provide biomimetic factors that replenish and help optimise your skins NMF (Natural Moisturising Factors). For those with oilier skins, opt for products with salicylic acid, because they work to remove excess oil and dead cells from the surface of the skin, preventing potential flareups and clogged pores. We have a product called Oil Control that contains salicylic acid and also the key antibacterial and antiviral components, copper and zinc. This would be used together with one of our micellar cleansers and is safe to use AM and PM.


Protect Your Skin Barrier

Yes, face masks trap oil and sebum but skin hydration and skin oil production are two separate issues. It’s important to apply a good, light moisturizer, especially when you’re wearing a face mask, even if your skin tends to be oily and acne-prone. You must protect your skin barrier. A face mask can cause friction on your face too, further impairing the skin barrier. And a damaged skin barrier causes inflammation and makes you more sensitive to pathogens.

All OptoDerm creams are light (although Rejuvenate is somewhat heavier) and they all contain a dual lipid-bilayer technology that responds to environmental changes. This technology is ideal to use under a mask, where conditions may go from cold and dry, to warm and humid, quite quickly. The lipid bilayer opens and closes according to environmental changes – either allowing heat and moisture to escape, or keeping it locked in to prevent TEWL (Trans-epidermal Water Loss). This technology has been clinically tested at MEDUNSA. The main benefit is that is helps to re-build and repair a compromised skin barrier. 

Our Balance cream is a great affordable active cream that contains many skin beneficial actives like niacinamide, NAG, inositol, caffeine, zinc, urea, glycine etc, and most of the skins NMF components too (sodium lactate, PCA, ribose etc). The Phospholipids in our creams contain relatively high amounts of linoleic acid, which plays an important role in the skins own synthesis of Ceramide 1, a lipid that is important for intact barrier function.

The niacinamide in Balance has an occlusive effect, without being greasy. A published study found that niacinamide was more effective than petrolatum (eg Vaseline – a common occlusive ingredient in moisturisers) in reducing water loss from the skin and in increasing its moisture levels. Niacinamide is also non-comedogenic (pore clogging), is a potent anti-aging ingredient in its own right and helps to prevent excess sebum production, in acne-prone skins. Much more info on our website here.

If your skin is really dry, consider adding a few drops of our affordable Hydrating Serum into your cream, especially at night. This contains squalane and vitamin F. Squalane is a non-polar, fully saturated, and very stable compound, resistant to oxidation and UV radiation. It is an exceptional moisturiser, preventing moisture loss and imparting suppleness and flexibility to your skin. Although the body produces its own version of squalane (known as squalene), the amount made and retained in the skin decreases over time. It peaks in our teens and then starts to decline in our 20’s, leaving skin rough, dry and vulnerable. The Vitamin F we use in Hydrating Serum comprises linoleic acid (C18:2), the main fatty acid, ~60% of the total, linolenic acid (C18:3) representing ~10% and the balance, arachidonic acid (C20:4). A deficiency in linoleic acid is linked to many skin problems – see our blog here for more details.

And the main action of CBD relates to up-regulating genes associated with barrier function. I wrote a blog about this here.


Skip Makeup Under Your Mask 

It might seem obvious, but if you’re used to wearing makeup on your entire face, it’s time to shift your application to only what’s above eye level. Any potentially irritating or pore-clogging ingredients should be avoided under the mask-covered skin. Minimise makeup — particularly foundations and concealer with heavy formulations, because the increased humidity under the mask could affect your skin’s sebum production and potentially lead to an increase in clogged pores and breakouts.


Treat Your Acne & Breakouts GENTLY 

Wearing face masks causes inflammation and rashes, so focusing on drying your acne can make the other skin problems worse. I highly recommend using products that can both hydrate and exfoliate. Using our Glycolic Toner, or our Bio-Enzyme Gel provides gentle and effective exfoliation and hydration. These can be used safely with our micellars and Oil Control.


Opt For A Breathable Cotton Face Cover 

We should be wearing cloth face coverings, not surgical masks or N-95 respirators, as those are critical supplies that must be reserved for frontline healthcare workers. There are now a lot of washable cloth face masks in the market, but make sure to opt for the most comfortable. Cotton is a breathable fabric and will be relatively non-irritating to the skin. You can put a filter pad inside it, or a coffee filter between the fabric for added protection.

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05 Mar
Acne Aging CBD Eczema Hydration Hyperpigmentation

CBD Gene Activation in Skin

March 5, 2019 Posted by:
Categories: Acne, Aging, CBD, Eczema, Hydration, Hyperpigmentation
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Unpublished research (courtesy of GeneMarkers, USA) shows that CBD, in the concentration and delivery vehicle of our CBD Serum, activates more than 165 genes in the skin. The total number of genes affected was 537 (481 up-regulated and 56 down-regulated). Approximately 39% of the main genes involved directly impact skin barrier formation, integrity and hydration – the reduction of trans-epidermal water loss, stimulation of filaggrin and NMF production. Next most important was the down-regulation of inflammation and allergic responses and thirdly, the promotion of wound healing and stimulation of growth factors. Other significant genes activated relate to acne and hyperpigmentation.

 

CBD up-regulates IL-37 (Interleukin 37), a cytokine. IL‑37 plays a vital role in inhibiting both innate and adaptive immune responses as well as inflammatory reactions. In addition, IL‑37 may prove to be a new and potentially useful target for effective cytokine therapy in auto-immune diseases and some cancers. In the skin, IL-37 dramatically blocks IL-6 and other inflammatory cytokines secreted by macrophages, yet promotes the production of IL-10 (also an anti-inflammatory cytokine) and modulates the immune response. This has potential ramifications in the treatment of conditions like psoriasis, eczema, dermatitis etc.

 

These results demonstrate that CBD has the potential to become as important as all-trans retinoids in skin care and skin health. In fact, the two are extremely compatible. As results are further analysed, no doubt other new and exciting markers will emerge. And best of all, this work is all being done in vitro, with no animal testing.

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13 Oct
Acne Aging Eczema Vitamins & Minerals

Zinc – Essential For Healthy Skin

October 13, 2018 Posted by:
Categories: Acne, Aging, Eczema, Vitamins & Minerals
Tags:

Zinc is an essential micronutrient for humans. Its importance can be gauged from the fact that it is an essential component of more than 300 metalloenzymes and over 2000 transcription factors that are needed for regulation of lipid, protein and nucleic acid metabolism, and gene transcription.

An average adult weighing 70 kg has a body zinc content of 1.4–2.3 grams, the highest tissue concentration being in the skin, prostate, seminal fluid and uveal tissue. While about half of the total body zinc is in your bones, your skin contains nearly 6% of total body zinc.

 

your skin contains nearly 6% of total body zinc

 

As movement of zinc across various tissues is limited and there is no storage depot, the continuous external supply of zinc is important for metabolic needs, growth, and tissue repair. The recommended daily allowance of zinc for an average adult male is 11mg and the requirement increases from 8mg/d to up to 12mg/d in females during pregnancy and lactation. Animal foods like meat, eggs, fish, and oysters are rich in zinc. Although cereals and legumes contain moderate amount of zinc, only 20–40% of ingested zinc is absorbed.

Zinc also possesses antioxidant properties and has been found useful in preventing UV-induced damage and reducing the incidence of malignancies. It has also been demonstrated to possess antiandrogenic properties as it causes modulation 5-alpha-reductase type 1 and 2 activity, the enzyme implicated in acne breakouts (it converts testosterone to DHT, a super-charged testosterone that increases sebum production, causing clogged pores and breakout).

 

Zinc is an antioxidant

 

Zinc has been used as a therapeutic modality for centuries. Topical preparations like zinc oxide, calamine, or zinc pyrithione have been in use as photo-protecting, soothing agents or as active ingredients. Its use has expanded over the years for a number of dermatological conditions including infections (warts, leishmaniasis), inflammatory dermatoses (acne vulgaris, rosacea), pigmentary disorders (melasma), and neoplasias (basal cell carcinoma).

 

Prevention of Photodamage and Skin Cancers

 

Zinc oxide provides UV-A protection 

 

Zinc oxide is widely used as a broad-spectrum physical sunscreen. Its advantage lies in its low cost and an excellent safety profile. It has been used alone and in combination with other physical (titanium oxide) or chemical sunscreen agents. The availability of microfine and nano zinc oxide, provides better cosmetic appeal and photoprotection than traditional zinc oxide preparations, without the whitening effect. Zinc oxide provides protection against UV-A1 (340–380) superior to titanium oxide providing better spectrum protection. In formulations, generally one gains 1 SPF unit per 1% zinc oxide added.

 

Acne

Oral and topical antibiotics and/or retinoids are commonly used acne therapies. With the emergence of resistance to common antibiotics the need for new and novel agents in acne management has become necessary. Zinc has been used extensively both topically and systemically for the management of acne vulgaris since the time its favourable effect on acne was recognized by research studies conducted in 1974. Zinc, with or without niacinamide, is an emerging alternate acne treatment to reduce possible adverse effects of antibiotics and in view of P. acnes strains developing resistance to conventional antibiotics. The exact mechanism of zinc in acne treatment remains poorly explained. Topical zinc alone as well as in combination with other agents is effective perhaps because of its anti-inflammatory activity and ability to reduce P. acnes counts by inhibition of P. acnes lipases and free fatty acid levels. Another proposed mechanism for the benefit of zinc in acne is suppression of sebum production by its antiandrogenic activity. Interestingly though, 2% green tea extract was found to be more effective in treating acne than 5% zinc sulphate.

 

Our new Balance cream formulation contains a niacinamide-zinc combination (amongst many other anti-acne ingredients).

Anti-aging

 

Copper-Zinc complexes enhance skin elasticity

 

The effects of bi-metal, 0.1% copper-zinc complexes, on elastin biosynthesis and elastic tissue accumulation has been researched with amazing results. After 8 weeks, significant elastic fibre regeneration was seen in the papillary dermis, leading to effacement of wrinkles. The combined photoprotective and elastic regenerative properties of zinc provides exciting possibilities for new products. At OptoDerm, we use a proprietary copper-zinc-magnesium complex in our Collastin serum, as well as our XyloPrep (a professional Microneedling gel).

 

Eczema

Depending upon the principal causative factors, the eczema may be endogenous eczema (atopic dermatitis, seborrhoeic dermatitis, discoid or nummular eczema, and asteatotic eczema) or exogenous or contact eczema (allergic or irritant contact dermatitis, photoallergic contact dermatitis). Zinc has anti-inflammatory properties and increases re-epithelialisation, supporting its use for treating eczemas. Zinc oxide paste has been used for the treatment of diaper dermatitis for decades. Although it is less effective compared to other treatment modalities like topical corticosteroids, it is a useful soothing and antipruritic agent

Topical zinc oxide, known for its strong antioxidant and antibacterial action, has been also used in treating atopic dermatitis, a chronic inflammatory eczematous dermatosis characterized by the impairment of the skin-barrier function, increased oxidative cellular stress, and bacterial colonisation.

 

Premalignant and Malignant Dermatoses

Zinc in high concentration has been found to possess a direct cytotoxic effect and is well known to induce apoptosis of malignant cells and tissue necrosis. This property of zinc has been utilised for its use in premalignant and malignant conditions of skin like xeroderma pigmentosa, actinic keratosis, and basal cell carcinoma. Topical therapy with zinc sulfate solution has been found to have both therapeutic and prophylactic role in patients with xeroderma pigmentosa. The beneficial effects of zinc in xeroderma pigmentosa or actinic keratosis (a premalignant condition resulting from proliferation of aberrant epidermal keratinocytes, that occurs primarily on sun-exposed skin) are attributable to enhanced wound healing, antioxidant action, sunscreen property, enhanced DNA repair, improved immunity, and accelerated apoptosis of malignant cells

 

Zinc enhances DNA repair

 

Vitiligo

Vitiligo is a common depigmenting disorder is seen in about 0.1%–2% of the population. As vitiligo patients have been found to have significant low serum zinc levels than normal controls, zinc was postulated to play a role in the management of vitiligo. Zinc possesses significant antiapoptotic and antioxidant activity and along with other micronutrients like copper and manganese also postulated to play an important role in melanogenesis.

 

Melasma

Melasma, a common pigmentary dermatosis, causes significant psychological stress due to cosmetic morbidity in affected patients. It affects all races with a predilection for Hispanics and Asians and accounts for 0.25 to 4% of the patients seen in dermatology practice in Southeast Asia. Genetic predisposition, pregnancy, oral contraceptives, endocrine dysfunction, hormone treatments, or exposure to UV light have been implicated frequently in its pathogenesis. Clinically, it presents in three distinct patterns – centrofacial, malar, and mandibular pigmentation (in ratios of 55–75%, 24–43%, and 1.5–2%). Topical zinc sulphate has also been tried in the management of melasma owing to its peeling and sunscreen properties.

 

Scars and Keloids

Hypertrophic scars and keloids of any origin are associated with considerable disfigurement. The beneficial effect of topical zinc in the treatment of keloids in few studies has been attributed to its ability to inhibit lysyl oxidase and stimulate collagenase that leads to decreased production and increased degradation of collagen.

 

Pruritus

Calamine lotion contains zinc oxide or zinc carbonate and is used frequently for symptomatic relief in pruritus because of its soothing properties. Zinc also inhibits mast cell degranulation and thereby reduces the secretion of histamine, an important mediator of inflammatory response and an inducer of itch, making it a useful treatment option in pruritic conditions.

 

Psoriasis

Psoriasis is a common disorder affecting nearly 2-3% of general population, with joint involvement being a common disabling complication. A large range of drugs, ranging from time tested modalities like coal tar and phototherapy, methotrexate, and retinoids to newer “biotech” modalities are currently used. However, the chronically relapsing nature of the disease has always compelled the researchers to look for novel and safe therapies. Zinc has been tried for the management of psoriasis and psoriatic arthritis, especially zinc pyrithione cream. The benefit is attributed to antiproliferative effect of zinc pyrithione. Oral zinc sulphate was found to be effective for psoriatic arthritis. However, oral zinc sulphate did not produce clinically significant improvement as a treatment modality for plaque psoriasis.

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02 Oct
Acne Eczema Hydration Rosacea

Omegas For Your Skin

October 2, 2018 Posted by:
Categories: Acne, Eczema, Hydration, Rosacea

You might have heard of some of these…

  • Essential fatty acids

  • Fatty acids

  • Omegas

  • Essential omegas

  • Omega 3, 6 and 9

Are they all the same thing? Is one type better than another?

Whether you’re talking about fatty acids, essential fatty acids or omegas – you’re talking about what are known as fats…fats that are really good for your skin.

There are TWO kinds of fats that our bodies need and use

  • Essential fats – also described as essential fatty acids (EFA’s) or essential omegas

  • Non-essential fats – also called fatty acids, or non-essential omegas.

The difference is really simple. Your body cannot make essential fats, they need to be fed to the body – either ingested or applied. For the non-essential kind, the opposite is true. There are three main types of  ‘omegas’: omega-3, 6 and 9 – the ‘Three Omegas’:

 

Omega-3 

Omega 3’s are polyunsaturated fatty acids. ​They are an “essential” fatty acid because the body cannot produce them on its own.

  • ALA, or alpha-linolenic acid, is found in some vegetable oils, nuts (mainly walnuts), leafy vegetables, and grass-fed animal fat

  • EPA, or eicosapentaenoic acid, mainly from fish oils

  • DHA, or docosahexaenoic acid, mainly from fish oils.

 

Omega-6

Omega-6’s are polyunsaturated fatty acids, considered essential fatty acids because the body cannot produce them on its own. They are found in meat, poultry and eggs, as well as nut and plant based oils.

  • ​LA, or linoleic acid, is an unsaturated omega-6 fatty acid

  • GLA, or gamma-linolenic acid, also is an unsaturated omega-6 fatty acid. However, it differs slightly from LA, and is found in different food sources and Evening Primrose Oil

  • AA, or arachidonic acid, is manufactured in the body and only becomes essential if there is a deficiency in linoleic acid, or if there is an inability to convert linoleic acid to arachidonic acid.

 

Dogs can manufacture arachidonic acid from linoleic acid, or gamma-linolenic acid. Cats cannot. Arachidonic acid is found in animal fats and must therefore be included as part of a cats diet – but not dogs. Like dogs, cats also require linoleic acid. So, don’t allow your cat to eat dog food!

Omega-9

Omega 9’s are monounsaturated fatty acids. They can be produced by the body and are therefore non-essential, but are also found in vegetables, nuts and seed oils.

  • Oleic acid is the primary omega 9 fatty acid

Oleic acid is a much maligned topical ingredient but in certain ratios works synergistically with linoleic acid on the skin. It plays an important role in assisting actives to penetrate the stratum corneum and is a natural component of your skin sebum.

There are TWO main essential fatty acids that your body cannot make itself – linoleic acid and alpha-linolenic acid. The old-school name for these 2 essential fatty acids is Vitamin F

 

Omega Fatty Acids and Their Role In Skin Health

The omega’s play a critical role in normal skin function and appearance. They influence the inflammatory response of the skin and play an important role in the structural integrity and barrier function of the skin.

Essential fatty acids can help protect you from:

  • Scaly dermatitis, eczema type reactions

  • Acne and spots

  • Sensitivity reactions

  • Dryness

  • Poor and slow healing or an unhealthy skin complexion

  • Premature signs of ageing

Both topical and oral supplementation are effective ways to deliver essential fatty acids to the skin. Topical application of certain omegas lessens UV-induced photo damage, signs of skin aging and inflammatory skin responses.

A significant portion of ingested essential fatty acids may be oxidised by the liver before reaching the skin. This means topical application can be a more efficient route of delivery for skincare applications

 

The two fatty acids that are most important for skincare are oleic acid (omega-9) and linoleic acid (omega-6)

Linoleic acid is a vital component in normal sebum and does what it is supposed to – protect the skin. Skin/sebum in those prone to acne and other skin problems, have been found to be deficient in linoleic acid. When linoleic acid is not present, or is present at much-reduced levels, sebum is produced with oleic acid only and is more likely to cause follicular blockage and breakout.

Like oleic acid, linoleic acid is anti-inflammatory and helps stimulate cell regeneration but it’s not as penetrating and moisturising as oleic acid and works best when mixed with oleic acid. And “normal” human sebum contains oleic acid.

 

Some skin facts about linoleic acid

  • Acne prone skin has abnormally low levels of linoleic acid

  • Linoleic acid is a component of the ceramides that make skin strong and impermeable and thus less easily ruptured and less sensitive to irritations

  • Low linoleic acid levels can be changed with topical application

  • Grape seed, Rosehip and Safflower oils contain >70% linoleic acid

  • Linoleic acid inhibits the enzymes that convert testosterone to DHT. Both types. So it can help with hirsutism, hairloss and acne (DHT is like a turbocharged testosterone that increases sebum production, leading to oily skin, blocked pores and breakout)

  • Linoleic acid is anti-inflammatory and protects the skin from UV damage

  • Linoleic Acid inhibits melanin and thus fades hyperpigmentation

  • Linoleic acid is antibacertial (controls P. acnes bacteria, which is implicated in acne)

  • Linoleic acid deficiency causes an increase in Interleukin -1a which is an inflammatory response

  • Tretinoin (and Retinic A10 etc) alters the lipid profile improving the linoleic acid composition of the skin

  • Linoleic acid improves the peroxisome proliferator-activated receptors (PPAR) and retinoid X receptor (RXR) situation that regulates sebum production and hyperkeritinisation/differentiation (what Accutane affects)

  • Linoleic acid is involved in the formation of lamellar granules that produce the enzymes involved in normal exfoliation. They also form the armor that makes your skin strong. Acne prone skin has been found to contain fewer lamellar granules

  • Ceramide in a deficient skin barrier is lacking a protein called sphingosine. In winter our skin produces less sphingosine which is one reason acne often worsens in winter. Topical application of live cultured yogurt can boost production

  • Thyroid hormone affects lipid profile. One way that perhaps both hypo- and hyperthyroid conditions affect acne.

  • We don’t necessarily have a dietary or systemic deficiency in linoleic acid, just in the sebum (a genetic tendency). Therefore a topical application is the best course of action.

  • Examples of skin problems affected by a deficiency in linoleic acid include acne, eczema, psoriasis, keratosis pilares, hypersensitivity to allergens, and dry itchy sensitive skin of all types-aka dermatitis.

 

Our approach with linoleic acid 

We prefer to use a carefully researched profile of water soluble forms of olive and macadamia oils in our products, to minimise pore clogging and extend product life, whilst delivering high levels of oleic and linoleic acids. OptoDerm products that contain this fatty acid profile are: Deep Cleansing Oil, Deep Cleansing Polish, and all our creams. We add shea butter glycerides, rich in stearic acid, to our cleansing oil products to help remove dirt, sweat and excess sebum from the skin.

Although its a fad at the moment, we do not advocate applying pure oils to the skin. Those rich in linoleic acid are likely to go rancid quite quickly. An example is grapeseed oil, loaded with lots of lovely linoleic and linolenic acid, but with a shelf life of only around three months. Once they go rancid, they can do the opposite of what you intended.

Don’t use coconut oil on your skin. Save it for the salad! 50% of its composition is made up of one ingredient – a long chain fatty acid called Lauric acid. It is extremely pore clogging

 

Enter the fourth omega

Macadamia Oil also contains palmitoleic acid, an omega-7, monounsaturated fatty acid, which is also made by the body, therefore classified as non-essential. It is an anti-aging antioxidant, found in younger skin, but diminishes as the body ages. Research has suggested that palmitoleic acid could assist in cell rejuvenation to help heal skin and reduce dermatitis and eczema.

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13 Sep
Acne Aging Hyperpigmentation Vitamins & Minerals

Your Skin Needs Vitamin A

September 13, 2018 Posted by:
Categories: Acne, Aging, Hyperpigmentation, Vitamins & Minerals
Tags:

 

There is much confusion over the range of retinoids available and the meaning of the strength and percentages on product labels. And some manufacturers use this to deliberately mislead consumers…more below

 

There are a few nutrients that skin really needs and vitamin A is definitely one of them. Whether you get it from your diet, or in a topical cream, the protective and nourishing properties of A, and the nutrients your body uses to make it, lend a hand in keeping skin healthy, firm and radiant.

Unlike many other nutrients, vitamin A is a group of compounds that includes its active forms (retinal, retinol and retinoic acid) and other provitamin A carotenoids, like beta-carotene. Beta-carotene is the form of vitamin A that we get directly from the plant foods we eat. Pre-formed, or active forms, are found in animal foods and beta-carotene is converted into the retinol form of vitamin A, inside our bodies.

The first retinoid (tretinoin) was originally FDA approved in 1962 and developed as a powerful prescription acne treatment in the late 1960s. It appeared to work by reducing the ability of the epithelial cells in the hair follicles to stick together, and make the cells divide faster – increasing cell turnover in the outer layers of skin. For patients with acne, this decreased the build-up of keratin which formed blackheads, and improved the health of the skin.

Vitamin A has a wider range of uses because it targets several skin health issues. Dermatologists noticed that patients using tretinoin experienced not just clearer but softer, brighter, skin with less superficial lines. Today there are three prescription-strength retinoids: tretinoin (brands include Atralin, Avita, Retin-A, Renova), tazarotene (Avage, Tazorac, fabior), and adapalene (Differin).

 

What happens when you feed your body vitamin A

  • It protects against UV damage and slows extrinsic aging

Most of your vitamin A intake comes from eating foods rich in beta-carotene and provitamin A carotenoids, which are potent anti-oxidants. Not only do these quench the free radicals that break down collagen and contribute to fine lines and sagging skin, they also lessen skin’s sensitivity to the sun, providing some natural protection against sun-induced redness and pigmentation.

  • It protects against infection and boosts immunity

Vitamin A is important for resistance to infection and a healthy immune system, so a vitamin A deficiency can lead to death from respiratory and other infections. Vitamin A plays a vital role in maintaining your body’s natural defenses, including the mucous barriers in your eyes, lungs, gut and genitals which help trap bacteria and other infectious agents.

It is also involved in the production and function of white blood cells, which help capture and clear bacteria and other pathogens from your bloodstream. This means that a deficiency in vitamin A can increase your susceptibility to infections and delay your recovery when you get sick. In fact, in countries where infections like measles and malaria are common, correcting vitamin A deficiency in children has been shown to decrease the risk of dying from these diseases.

Your skin is the body’s largest organ and an important part of your immune system – your first line of defense against bacteria, pollutants and infection. By promoting keratinocyte turnover in the epidermis, vitamin A helps strengthen the natural lipid barrier, protecting your skin from harmful irritants that attempt to attack the surface.

  • It increases cellular turnover

Retinal, retinol and retinoic acid are important to cell production and growth. Vitamin A thickens and stimulates the dermis, the deeper level of the skin where your collagen, elastin and blood vessels reside. This means it aids blood circulation to the surface of the skin and supports the renewal of skin cells. Vitamin A increases the deposition of collagen and slows the normal aging breakdown of collagen and elastin. Because vitamin A and carotenoids play such a big role in cell and tissue growth, not getting enough can lead to weak, fragile skin, causing problems ranging from dryness, to wounds that heal slower.

  • Protects your vision

Vitamin A helps protect the cornea and it is essential for good vision. A vitamin A deficiency causes damage to the retina, which contributes to blindness. When used in combination with other antioxidant vitamins, it also appears to play a role in decreasing the risk of vision loss from macular degeneration.

  • May lower the risk of certain cancers

In observational studies, eating higher amounts of vitamin A in the form of beta-carotene has been linked to a decreased risk of certain types of cancer, including Hodgkin’s lymphoma, as well as cervical, lung and bladder cancer.

 

How much should you get?

Vitamin A that comes from animal food sources is not water-soluble and therefore is not readily excreted from the body. Instead, it is stored in body fat and, if ingested in excess amounts, can build up in the body and become toxic.

Beta-carotene and other provitamin A carotenoids found in fruits and vegetables don’t pose the same vitamin A toxicity risk. These compounds are water-soluble and are easily eliminated from the body, so vitamin A toxicity from vegetarian food sources is rare.

Beta-carotene supplements, however, may have serious risks for smokers. Two studies have found that smokers taking daily supplements containing 20 to 30 mg of beta-carotene had an increased risk of lung cancer compared with smokers who did not take supplements.

The recommended daily amount of vitamin A is 900 micrograms (ug) for adult men and 700 ug for adult women.

Retinoids can be found in animal products, such as:

  • salmon
  • beef liver (the highest level!)
  • dairy products, such as milk, butter, and cheddar cheese
  • eggs
  • fish
  • cod liver oil
  • prawns

Carotenoids can be found in plant products, such as:

  • carrots (the highest level!)
  • tomatoes
  • sweet potatoes
  • leafy green vegetables
  • fruits, such as mango, apricots, and plums.

Taking more than 10,000 ug a day of oral vitamin A supplements long term can cause:

  • Bone thinning
  • Liver damage
  • Headaches
  • Diarrhea
  • Nausea
  • Skin irritation
  • Pain in the joints and bone
  • Birth defects

The oral acne drug, Accutane (isotretinoin), can be dangerous. It may cause serious side-effects, most notably birth defects. But Accutane is also one of the most effective prescription drugs available for severe acne.

 

The oral drug Accutane may cause serious side-effects, most notably birth defects

 

Why topical vitamin A is better

  • It smoothes wrinkles

Topical vitamin A’s are proven wrinkle-fighters and many dermatologists’ go-to active for anti-aging. Research has shown that these ingredients are able to stimulate collagen production and lessen the effect of the enzymes that degrade it. Retinoids “turn on” fibroblasts to make new collagen, strengthen your skin and fill in fine lines below the surface, so the skin looks smoother.

  • It evens skin tone

Vitamin A creams can help lighten sun-induced brown spots and boost skin radiance in two ways – firstly, by increasing and normalising skin cell turnover, which helps shed pigmented and damaged surface cells, making room for healthier cells. Secondly, retinoids block the enzyme needed for melanin (pigment) production, tyrosinase, further helping to deliver an even-toned, glowing skin.

  • It clears acne

Pimples form when pores become clogged with dead skin cells, bacteria and oil, providing the perfect breeding ground for P.acnes, a common bacteria responsible for blemishes. When vitamin A creams stimulate cell turnover the same process happens within the pores themselves, helping to slow oil production and keep pores clear.

 

But…not all retinoids are created equal

There is much confusion over the range of retinoids available and the meaning of the strength and percentages on product labels. And some manufacturers use this to deliberately mislead consumers (see my additional footnote at the end of this blog for more).

‘Retinoid’ is the generic term for the family of ingredients related to Vitamin A which occur naturally in our bodies. When referring to topically applied retinoids, the only two retinoids that your skin is able to process immediately (ie that cell receptors recognise) are retinoic acid and hydroxypinacolone retinoate (the form we use). All other forms of retinoids have to be converted by skin enzymes into retinoic acid before the skin is able to use them.

 

In reality you would need a 20% concentration of retinol to equal 0.05% tretinoin prescription strength retinoic acid, or the 1% hydroxypinacolone retinoate we use

 

These are the main forms of retinoids used in topical skincare products:

  • Retinol

Retinol is a specific form of vitamin A that is naturally produced in your body. It is often used in over the counter products since it is inexpensive. Non-medical grade Retinol is typically sold in products at the 1% or 2% level, but some products use up to 5%. Don’t confuse this with the 0.05% retinoic acid in tretinoin (or the 1% hydroxypinacolone retinoate we use in Retinic A10). In reality you would need a 20% concentration of retinol to equal 0.05% tretinoin prescription strength retinoic acid, or the 1% hydroxypinacolone retinoate we use.

When applied to your skin, enzymes in your skin convert retinol into retinaldehyde and then into retinoic acid, in a two-part conversion process. The conversion into retinoic acid can take a few days, sometimes weeks, which is why you should use retinol products consistently for a few months before expecting to see results. Count on twelve weeks before seeing results. During this time, much of what you applied will never convert to the active form, since retinol is extremely sensitive to degradation, especially as induced by light.

  • Retinyl palmitate

is the ester of retinol combined with palmitic acid, a saturated fatty acid and a major component of palm oil. Although it absorbs skin better than retinol, it is much weaker, since it must first be converted to retinol before the further conversion steps to retinoic acid can occur. It is therefore somewhat gentler on the skin but the trade-off is efficacy.

  • Retinaldehyde

Also powerful and effective is Retinaldehyde – it has the advantage of having no burn, and also being available without prescription. The disadvantage is that it is expensive when added to skincare products.

  • Retinoic Acid

Medical grade tretinoin, available on prescription only, and you need to develop a tolerance to it since it can burn, itch, scale and peel. Retinoic acid is powerful at the level of 0.05% (brands include Retin-A). Retinoic acid can be used by your skin without having to be converted by skin enzymes. This makes it about 100 times more potent than the average over-the-counter products containing pure retinol. It is used mainly as a prescription drug for severe acne, although some dermatologists prescribe it for patients in a hurry to renew ageing skin and who are willing to tolerate the side-effects.

 

Our form of retinoid leapfrogs all the others

We were the first company in SA to use a new generation of retinoid, called hydroxypinacolone retinoate, in skincare products. This form of retinoid in unique in that, like retinoic acid, it is able to bind directly to retinoid receptors, without needing to undergo enzymatic conversion. As such, its residence time in the skin is lower, since it is able to get to work straight away.  Thanks to our transdermal technology, it is able to penetrate quicker, lowering the irritation factor and potential for inflammatory responses.

So, the order of strengths of the different retinoids, from weakest to strongest, is:

retinyl palmitate < retinol < retinaldehyde < hydroxypinacolone retinoate < retinoic acid < isotretinoin

 

Try a good retinoid on your skin. It may take weeks but you WILL see a difference!

 

Update on 14-09-18:

We had an excellent question from Maryanne (below) concerning Granactive Retinoid. I believe some manufacturers are deliberately misleading consumers with the way they state the concentration of this retinoid. See my answer to her comment below.

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30 Aug
Acne CBD Eczema Rosacea

Cannabis And Your Skin

August 30, 2018 Posted by:
Categories: Acne, CBD, Eczema, Rosacea
Tags:

 

Is it legal?

There are two main varieties of cannabis – cannabis sativa (also known as marijuana, dagga, boom, and a bunch of other names) and cannabis indica (also known as hemp). Hemp is legally grown around the world and used in many industrial products, including textiles. The main active molecule in marijuana is THC, or tetrahydrocannabidiol, a psychoactive molecule that makes you high. Hemp on the other hand, may not legally contain more than 0.03% THC but is otherwise identical. Its main active molecule is CBD, or cannabidiol. CBD has no psychoactive activity but does have many health benefits, the one of interest to us here is skincare. In August last year the DOH downgraded CBD from Schedule 6 to Schedule 4, for internal, therapeutic purposes, ie it is available from doctors on prescription.

 

We recently launched a CBD Cream with 100mg of hemp-derived CBD, per 50ml jar, specifically for skincare applications. It is not intended as a medicine, to treat or cure any conditions, but more for general skin well-being and not for internal use. It is currently only available through our medical stockists.

 

So why does CBD have health benefits?

 

The Endocannabinoid system, or ECM, is a biological system composed of endocannabinoids, which are neurotransmitters that bind to cannabinoid receptors, and cannabinoid receptor proteins that are expressed throughout our central nervous system (including the brain) and peripheral nervous system. It was only discovered in the late 80’s and unfortunately, due to legal constraints, formal research has only recently started, to figure out the real value of compounds like CBD. This recent blog has helped awareness on just how effective CBD can be for the treatment of eczema, an otherwise difficult skin condition to treat.

 

The skin produces endocannabinoid molecules such as anandamide (AEA) and 2-AG. These endocannabinoids are constantly released in specific amounts, depending on the “healthy need” of the organ, resulting in the skin’s ‘cannabinoid tone’. Since these endocannabinoids can cross the blood-brain barrier, they are able to act on areas of the brain too. Some of us are aware of anandamide, which is produced following strenuous exercise. In the case of anandamide, it produces a euphoric effect, sometimes known as “runner’s high”. Not surprising then that CBD is finding application in treating a multitude of mental and nervous system conditions, such as depression and epilepsy.

 

The two main receptors in the ECM, are CB1 and CB2, discovered and cloned in the early 90’s. THC binds directly to these receptors, whereas CBD seems to influence them without direct binding. CBD is the mimetic phytocannabinoid of 2-AG, ie CBD functions in exactly the same way as 2-AG, even though it is derived from a plant.

 

CBD from marijuana, is exactly the same as CBD from hemp

 

CBD and your skin

 

Excitingly, CB1 and CB2 receptors have been found in almost every cell type in the skin, from the epidermis, to the dermis to the hypodermis. Endocannabinoid molecules are synthesized by several cell types in the epidermis, hair follicles and sebaceous glands. The skin’s cannabinoid tone constantly affects all compartments of the skin, as endocannabinoids act on various cell types and contribute to their healthy physiological function. Let’s look at just a few:

 

Keratinocytes

 

These cells dominate the epidermis and eventually mature and die, forming the “dead” skin surface layer called the stratum corneum. In the process they move to the skin surface and are sloughed off as new keratinocytes are born in the basal layer of the epidermis. This process, in a healthy, young skin, takes on average 27 days. The role of keratinocytes is extremely important since they produce the enzymes and lipids necessary for a healthy skin barrier, hydration and protection from outside dangers. CBD induces the birth of keratinocytes and then, as they mature and differentiate, it assists in switching on the production of key skin elements – enzymes, lipids, filaggrin etc. When keratinocytes mature and start dying, CBD assists them to commit suicide, forming corneocytes in the process. This cellular turnover is vital for a healthy skin. CBD also appears to reduce the growth of keratinocytes that are growing too quickly, that would normally lead to a build-up of scaly cell layers.

 

Immune Cells

 

The skin has its own immune system that constantly protects against bacteria, viruses, allergens and other external factors. This system is composed of various immune cell types which either reside inside the skin or ‘invade’ it when danger is sensed. Most importantly, all other skin cell types can join the skin’s immune system to protect and heal the organ when necessary. However, sometimes these immune cells are over-stimulated, leading to inflammation and other skin conditions, such as psoriasis. CBD modulated these immune cells, especially those that are over active and may therefore play a key role in treating inflammatory skin conditions.

 

Nerves

 

Each part of the skin is supplied by a huge, dense network of nerve fibres. Sensory nerve endings recognize practically all types of stimuli, which result in the tactile sensations of heat, cold, pressure, vibration, pain and itch. Because of these versatile functions, the skin is considered the largest sensory organ. CBD appears to reduce the sensitivity of hyperactive sensory cells and is especially effective in reducing itching and pain sensations.

 

Sebum Balance

 

The physiological cannabinoid tone is also key to the healthy biology of the sebaceous glands. When endocannabinoids or their receptors are not properly produced or functioning, the glands are unable to secrete enough lipid-containing sebum and the waterproof skin barrier may be weakened, increasing the potential for microbes to invade the body. If the cannabinoid tone of the glands is kept in balance, it contributes to homeostasis and healthy skin. And, CBD appears to decrease excessive sebum production too.

 

unhealthy activity of the skin’s cannabinoid tone likely contributes to the development of highly-prevalent conditions including acne, dry skin, inflammation, eczema and psoriasis

 

Endocannabinoid deficiency and dysregulation are thought to contribute to a wide array of human diseases. It can be inferred that unhealthy activity of the skin’s cannabinoid tone likely contributes to the development of highly-prevalent conditions including acne, dry skin, inflammation, eczema and psoriasis. CBD is likely to contribute in the future to the treatment of these and other conditions. Our CBD cream is formulated to address all skin conditions relating to poor barrier function, especially eczema and psoriasis. We only use ultra-pure CO2 extracted CBD, legally imported from the USA and we combine CBD with a soothing dipeptide (N-Acetyl-Tyrosyl-Arginyl-Hexadecyl Ester) that is naturally produced in the body.

 

Acne

 

Acne is notorious for being difficult to treat. It often involves the use of retinoids and antibiotics. The acneic skin also tends to become hyper keratolytic, causing dead skin cells to not shed effectively and leading to blocked follicles. This leads to an increase in bacteria and inflammation which causes pimples. Retinoids help by improving the cell turnover which prevents the follicle from getting blocked. Unfortunately, retinoids can make the skin very sensitive and it is often difficult for the patient to stay compliant when using retinoids in the long run. They have many side-effects too. CBD is proving clinically to have a similar effect as retinoids, ie it improves cell differentiation, speeds up the production of new healthy cells and encourages the differentiation and shedding of cells from the skin. CBD also reduces the over production of sebum. Its anti-inflammatory effect improve acne lesions and prevent scarring associated with acne.

 

CBD shows much of the same activity we associate with vitamin A, the gold standard in skincare. But without the sideffects

 

Rosacea

 

Rosacea is another complex skin disease that can be improved with the use of topical CBD. Rosacea is a chronic, incurable inflammatory skin disease that is characteriseds and the long-term complications of those flare ups by improving skin barrier function and reducing inflammation. Rosacea also affects the texture of the skin significantly, so by recommending CBD topically, which has a similar effect in improving cell proliferation as retinoids do, we will improve the texture of the skin in the long run. The use of retinoids is often recommended for rosacea, but due to its sensitizing effect may be uncomfortable for the patient to use. CBD is also highly anti-inflammatory and will reduce the inflammation in a skin prone to rosacea. There are various clinical subtypes of rosacea, and papulopustular rosacea can present with acne like pustules that can cause severe scarring. It is, therefore, necessary to reduce excess sebum production, which CBD does.

 

Eczema and Psoriasis

 

CBD has similar benefits for skins that suffer from eczema and psoriasis and is, therefore, an excellent topical product to use for any skin that is affected by poor skin barrier function. It is best combined with our Micellar Cleanser for Sensitive Skin, Deep Cleansing Oil, Bio-Enzyme Gel and Green Tea Serum, all of which assist CBD in drastically improving the skin.

 

 

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23 Aug
Acne

Acne 101

August 23, 2018 Posted by:
Categories: Acne
Tags:

 

It might sound crazy, but if you do have acne, your phone screen touching your face is a great way to spread P.acnes bacteria…more below

Acne Vulgaris is a skin disease that affects most people at some point in their lives. It usually starts at puberty, affects both men and women and is more common in certain racial groups. It affects mostly the face, back and chest – areas with the highest concentration of oil glands (called sebaceous glands). Acne can, and does, run in families. Clinical history is one way to determine the root causes of acne and can give insights into one’s tendency to develop it.

 

What causes it?

Acne is influenced by many factors, of which hormonal fluctuations is the most common. It affects the pilosebaceous unit which attaches to our hair follicles and affects both the epidermis and the dermis. Sebum is a necessary component in skin health but when over secreted, it can cause acne. Sebum production is influenced by androgenic hormones, which are influenced by the hormone testosterone (and, yes, women also make testosterone!). Conventional treatment aims to stabilize these hormones to reduce acne, but unfortunately, it is only one factor that affects the sebaceous gland. Females often have an underlying reproductive disorder, such as polycystic ovarian syndrome. It is advisable to consult a medical professional to eliminate possible health conditions which could contribute to the problem, especially if there are other symptoms present. Certain medications can also cause acne.

 

Other factors include the skin’s barrier function, skin care habits, lifestyle and diet. When the acidity of our skin’s acid mantle is compromised, it does not have the ability to combat bacteria and irritants that may gain access to the skin. A deficiency of natural lipids and hydration may also affect the skins ability to shed dead skin cells effectively. This blocks pores, causing blackheads. It is common for acne sufferers to use harsh cleansers, which strip the skin of its natural lipids and reduce the efficacy of the acid mantle. This leads to a compromised barrier, the ideal environment for bacteria to flourish in. Avoid foaming cleansers with anionic surfactants, like SLS (Sodium Lauryl/Laureth Sulphate). These complex with minerals in tap water (‘hard’ water), forming insoluble compounds that clog pores. If there is a dirty ring around your bath after you empty it, then you are in an area with hard water and using SLS-based cleansers on your face, WILL clog your pores. Furthermore, this type of cleanser destroys the skins natural lipid barrier, leaving your skin feeling tight. In a previous blog we discussed the concept of ‘active’ cleansers. Our Micellar Sensitive Cleanser is fortified with actives that fight acne – niacinamide, NAG and caffeine. It does not disturb the natural lipid barrier and is made with purified water.

If there is a dirty ring around your bath after you empty it, then you are in an area with hard water and using SLS-based cleansers on your face, WILL clog your pores

Our Deep Cleansing Oil contains several beneficial ingredients to combat acne, such as macadamia oil glycerides, shea butter and olive oil esters. This combination is most similar to that of normal, healthy skin sebum. It facilitates the removal of excess sebum (and even waterproof makeup) and restores the lipid balance in the skin, even on oily skins. Linoleic acid is the key active ingredient that combats acne. Linoleic acid is a naturally occurring fatty acid that is present in sebum but acneic skin almost always lacks linoleic acid. It is antibacterial, highly anti-inflammatory and improves skin barrier function.

 

Four factors are always present with acne vulgaris

  • Hyperproliferation of epidermal cells (cells duplicate rapidly and they don’t shed off when they should)
  • Excess sebum production (influenced by hormones)
  • Presence of Propionibacterium acnes or P.acne’s bacteria (influenced by excess sebum, poor skin barrier function and too high skin pH)
  • Inflammation

 

The approach to treating acne has changed over the years and although there is still a need to treat certain types of acne with medication, targeting acne during its early stages with a specific combination of active ingredients, can prevent it from escalating. Treating the skin gently, to preserve the barrier function is the best approach. And it all starts with a good cleansing routine.

 

The next step in ensuring the effective treatment of acne is in using treatment products that reduce sebum production, reduce bacteria and restore barrier function by reducing inflammation. Acne prone skins are particularly at risk of oxidative damage due to free radicals. Often adolescents who suffer with acne may also develop hyperpigmentation when they are older.  We can combat this by using Green Tea Serum. This contains green tea extract, a powerful antioxidant which is highly anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and will target excess pigment production as well (as discussed last week in our blog). Our Balance cream is ideal for normal and oily skins. It can be used morning and evening and although it has powerful ingredients, it still preserves the skins natural protection mechanisms. It contains niacinamide, NAG and caffeine, all excellent for reducing breakouts and inflammation. These ingredients also assist in the treatment of post-acne hyperpigmentation which is especially common in darker skins. Other useful tools to fight acne are Vitamin A (our Retinic A10) and Vitamin C (our Vitamin C serum).

 

Advice (especially) for darker skins

 

  1. Leave pimples alone

It’s common knowledge that aggravating your acne can prolong healing, but for ethnic skin it can be even worse, because post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) is easy to induce in darker skins. This causes patches of skin to be darker. Picking at blemishes can cause PIH and scars that may take months, even years to fade.

 

  1. Use medication cautiously

Some of the most harmful products for ethnic skin can be found in common medications for treating acne. They’re found in many cleansers, skincare products, and acne treatments because they kill the bacteria under the skin, but, for ethnic skins, these common chemicals can be harmful. Benzoyl peroxide, for example, can be especially irritating for darker skin. Salicylic acid can sometimes dry skin out too much, causing it to create more oil. Seek professional help and check with a dermatologist — one that’s experienced in different ethnicities and skin types.

 

  1. Get sun but protect yourself from harmful UV radiation

It’s a myth that darker skins don’t need sun protection. Half an hour of healthy sun exposure can help heal acne, but that exposure should be SPF protected to avoid increasing your risk of skin cancer.

 

  1. Keep your pores clear

When buying products, think about your pores. Before you pick up that new moisturizer or foundation, read the labels to see if it’s non-comedogenic, which means it won’t clog your pores.

 

  1. Check your hair products

If you’re taking good care of your skin but still breaking out, examine the other beauty products in your bathroom. Some hair products, like pomade, gels and hair oils, may be great for our hair, but not for our skin. So, if your breakouts are around the hairline, they may be to blame. Similarly, if breakouts are popping up on your cheeks or on certain sides of your face, it could be because the hair products left on your pillow. Washing your pillow cases more often and covering your hair at night may help.

 

  1. Clean your phone

It might sound crazy, but if you do have acne, the screen touching your face is a great way to spread P.acnes bacteria. Keep your screen clean to avoid spreading the bacteria. Ideally use an alcohol wipe. See this blog for more.

 

Next week we will discuss CBD, the legal “medical” component of cannabis and what it can do for your skin.

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16 Aug
Acne Hyperpigmentation Rosacea

A Force of Nature – Part 2

August 16, 2018 Posted by:
Categories: Acne, Hyperpigmentation, Rosacea
Tags:

As mentioned last week, in Part 1, EGCG is a miracle molecule. Its versatility in treating all skin conditions safely, it’s compatibility with most skin types and its protective benefits makes it the ultimate staple in any skin routine. We discussed aging last week but let’s look at some common skin indications that can be improved safely and effectively by including topical EGCG into your routine:

 

Acne

Acne is usually caused by a combination of factors including hypersecretion of sebum, inflammation and presence of P.acnes bacteria. Hormonal triggers are very common and there is usually an unbalanced production of androgenic hormones, which are influenced by testosterone and DHT, a super-charged testosterone.  Topical ECGC reduces acne lesions in three ways – it reduces the amount of sebum produced (especially when combined with niacinamide, as found in our Balance Cream and Sensitive Micellar Cleanser), inflammation and the viability of P.acnes. The antimicrobial benefits of green tea is a great way to treat any patient that suffers from Acne vulgaris despite their age or the grade of acne.

 

Rosacea

Rosacea can often be misdiagnosed as acne, due to the fact that it presents with a lot of the same features. This includes acne-like lesions, redness, disturbed barrier function and severe inflammation. The anti-inflammatory benefits of EGCG are particularly helpful in the treatment of rosacea. Another factor that makes it such a great choice is the fact that rosacea is a long-term, chronic and incurable skin disease which means that whatever is prescribed to treat it, must be suitable for long-term use. Green tea catechins will not only drastically decrease the inflammation associated with rosacea but will also improve barrier function and reduce the severity of flare-ups.

 

Hyperpigmentation

Melasma is a particularly stubborn, resistant and difficult to treat form of hyperpigmentation. There are many external influences on melasma including excess unprotected sun exposure and harsh chemical peels. Melasma is highly influenced by hormonal fluctuations and chronic inflammation, and once it’s there it can be particularly difficult to treat as it has a tendency to reappear even in the cases where it has been treated successfully. EGCG has a long-term beneficial effect on hyperpigmentation as it reduces the damage that occurs to the melanocyte due to sun exposure, the free radical damage is reduced and chronic inflammation is combatted. EGCG has the ability to reduce melanin transfer to the skin cells so it will reduce the overall severity of hyperpigmentation and prevent it from worsening in the long run.

 

Why drinking green tea isn’t necessarily the best route to getting your daily dose of EGCG

Green tea contains quite a lot of caffeine, approximately 40mg per cup (about half the level of black tea). Catechins make up about 50-100mg per cup, depending on tea plucking season and method, the way it is brewed etc. Of this, EGCG can be as high as 70mg BUT the presence of minerals in water makes a huge difference on the activity of EGCG, especially calcium and magnesium. In areas with hard water, this could mean that most of the EGCG is rendered ineffective.

Then consider what EGCG needs to overcome in the gastrointestinal tract – harsh pH conditions, enzymes and other digestive processes – the so-called “first-pass metabolism”. In fact, this is why EGCG is being used as a dietary supplement. Studies indicate that green tea catechins, particularly EGCG, interfere with the emulsification, digestion, and micellar solubilization of lipids, critical steps involved in the intestinal absorption of dietary fat, cholesterol, and other lipids. Based on the observations, it is likely that green tea or its catechins lower the absorption and tissue accumulation of other lipophilic organic compounds. The available information strongly suggests that green tea or its catechins may be used as effective lipid-lowering therapeutic agents, although over doing it may cause liver damage, even acute liver failure.

Five cups of green tea a day should give you the recommended EGCG dose of 200mg/day. Just remember to use purified water and steep the tea for 3-5 minutes. Any longer won’t extract any further EGCG, it will just increase bitterness. And … preferably use a decaffeinated green tea.

So, the question is: after first-pass metabolism, how much EGCG left to be of benefit to our skin? And, isn’t the direct, topical route better?

Our topical Green Tea Serum is the perfect serum to use in combination with other protocols that address the individual skin conditions mentioned above. It will drastically improve the condition of the skin, whether it is a younger or more mature skin type. EGCG is also the perfect post-procedure product and can be applied after micro-needling procedures and non-ablative laser procedures or chemical peels, to protect the barrier, soothe irritated skin and will speed up the healing process.

With daily use of this hero product, you simply cannot go wrong!

 

 

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