Our Retinic A10 Serum contains 1% hydroxypinacolone retinoate (equivalent to approximately 17% retinol), belonging to a class of chemical compounds termed retinoids (derivatives of Vitamin A) – see the important note below. The mechanism of action of our Retinic A10 Serum is advanced compared to other retinol derivatives. It is capable of binding directly to retinoid receptors, without having to undergo enzymatic conversion steps and is therefore stronger than conventional retinoids, like retinol or retinol esters. To interact with retinoid receptors, retinol must first be metabolised to more active forms, such as retinaldehyde and retinoic acid using several enzymatic steps. Its efficacy is therefore much better than higher concentrations of other retinoids (approximately equivalent to 17% retinol), without the irritation. It is dermatologically tested to offer less irritation potential than retinol, providing a gentle, safe and effective anti-
The binding of retinoid receptors enhances gene expression, which effectively turns key cellular functions on and off. When skin cell retinoid receptors are bound with retinoids, a cascade of mechanisms that benefit skin complexion are switched on. This results in enhanced cell proliferation, biosynthesis of extracellular proteins and glycans, and improved cellular turnover. These are important for normalizing cell renewal and repair processes.
The presence of skin-identical phospholipids and biomimetic moisturising factors in Retinic A10 Serum, helps repair and hydrate the skin’s natural barrier and replenish depleted NMF (Natural Moisturising Factors). These are: Sodium Lactate, Sodium PCA, Glycine, Fructose, Urea, Niacinamide, Inositol and Lactic Acid.
Retinic A10 Serum also now contains Hyaluronic Acid and Xyloglucans!
Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a non-sulfated glycosaminoglycan (GAG), naturally distributed in human body. Hyaluronic acid is the major component of the extra cellular matrix. It is found in high quantity in the skin where it is produced by fibroblasts and keratinocytes. One of its main functions is to hold water in the intercellular matrix of the connective tissue. This water-binding capacity contributes significantly to the elasticity of the skin, since HA plays the role of water pump, maintaining skin elasticity by acting as a water reservoir. It is also involved in tissue repair and while it is abundant in extracellular matrices, it also contributes to tissue hydrodynamics, movement and proliferation of cells, and participates in a number of cell surface receptor interactions, notably those including its primary receptor, CD44.
The second barrier of the skin, below the horny layer or stratum corneum, consists of so-called ‘tight junctions’. During ageing this second barrier is weakened. OptoDerm’s PenetrX technology facilitates efficient skin permeation of the low molecular weight hyaluronic acids in HA Serum. These fragments are able to induce gene activation, such as occludin and claudins, which are involved in the formation of tight junctions in the upper part of the epidermis. Image analysis after two months of use, confirm the anti-wrinkle activity of this product, especially relating to deep wrinkles.
The key benefits of a blend of low molecular weight hyaluronic acids are:
- Deep wrinkle depth is decreased
- Appearance of fine lines is visibly reduced
- Skin is smoother with a softer touch and improved overall young looking appearance
- Skin appears plumper
- Skin appears firmer
- Skin elasticity is improved
Xyloglucans (or Tamarindus indica polysaccharides), endowed with remarkable filming and hydrating properties, enhance the serum’s hydration activity by stimulating the production of filligrin, a protein crucial in maintaining skin hydration. Research shows that cutaneous hydration immediately improved by >59% at 30 minutes, and, over a longer period (30 days) improved skin hydration by >35%, providing a strong moisturizing effect, both short and long term. Xyloglucans also inhibit senescence-related β-galactosidase, which is typically overexpressed in aging keratinocytes, especially those exposed to UV radiation damage and oxidative stress. Research also shows that xyloglucans improved overall skin elasticity by >19%, and decreased skin roughness by >21%, providing a visible anti-wrinkle effect. Furthermore, the combination of xyloglucans and hyaluronic acid stimulates the production of the anti-inflammatory cytokine, IL-10.
Some of our competitors use Granactive Retinoid™ which is also a form of hydroxypinacolone retinoate. 10% Granactive Retinoid™ is equivalent to 1% hydroxypinacolone retinoate, even though they sometimes misleadingly claim that they are adding 10% retinoid. It is actually 1% retinoid.