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02 Oct

Omegas For Your Skin

October 2, 2018 Posted by: John Heath

Categories: Acne, Eczema, Hydration, Rosacea

You might have heard of some of these…

Essential fatty acids
Fatty acids
Omegas
Essential omegas
Omega 3, 6 and 9

Are they all the same thing? Is one type better than another?

Whether you’re talking about fatty acids, essential fatty acids or omegas – you’re talking about what are known as fats…fats that are really good for your skin.

There are TWO kinds of fats that our bodies need and use

Essential fats – also described as essential fatty acids (EFA’s) or essential omegas
Non-essential fats – also called fatty acids, or non-essential omegas.

The difference is really simple. Your body cannot make essential fats, they need to be fed to the body – either ingested or applied. For the non-essential kind, the opposite is true. There are three main types of ‘omegas’: omega-3, 6 and 9 – the ‘Three Omegas’:

Omega-3

Omega 3’s are polyunsaturated fatty acids. They are an “essential” fatty acid because the body cannot produce them on its own.

ALA, or alpha-linolenic acid, is found in some vegetable oils, nuts (mainly walnuts), leafy vegetables, and grass-fed animal fat
EPA, or eicosapentaenoic acid, mainly from fish oils
DHA, or docosahexaenoic acid, mainly from fish oils.

Omega-6

Omega-6’s are polyunsaturated fatty acids, considered essential fatty acids because the body cannot produce them on its own. They are found in meat, poultry and eggs, as well as nut and plant based oils.

LA, or linoleic acid, is an unsaturated omega-6 fatty acid
GLA, or gamma-linolenic acid, also is an unsaturated omega-6 fatty acid. However, it differs slightly from LA, and is found in different food sources and Evening Primrose Oil
AA, or arachidonic acid, is manufactured in the body and only becomes essential if there is a deficiency in linoleic acid, or if there is an inability to convert linoleic acid to arachidonic acid.

Dogs can manufacture arachidonic acid from linoleic acid, or gamma-linolenic acid. Cats cannot. Arachidonic acid is found in animal fats and must therefore be included as part of a cats diet – but not dogs. Like dogs, cats also require linoleic acid. So, don’t allow your cat to eat dog food!

Omega-9

Omega 9’s are monounsaturated fatty acids. They can be produced by the body and are therefore non-essential, but are also found in vegetables, nuts and seed oils.

Oleic acid is the primary omega 9 fatty acid

Oleic acid is a much maligned topical ingredient but in certain ratios works synergistically with linoleic acid on the skin. It plays an important role in assisting actives to penetrate the stratum corneum and is a natural component of your skin sebum.

There are TWO main essential fatty acids that your body cannot make itself – linoleic acid and alpha-linolenic acid. The old-school name for these 2 essential fatty acids is Vitamin F

Omega Fatty Acids and Their Role In Skin Health

The omega’s play a critical role in normal skin function and appearance. They influence the inflammatory response of the skin and play an important role in the structural integrity and barrier function of the skin.

Essential fatty acids can help protect you from:

Scaly dermatitis, eczema type reactions
Acne and spots
Sensitivity reactions
Dryness
Poor and slow healing or an unhealthy skin complexion
Premature signs of ageing

Both topical and oral supplementation are effective ways to deliver essential fatty acids to the skin. Topical application of certain omegas lessens UV-induced photo damage, signs of skin aging and inflammatory skin responses.

A significant portion of ingested essential fatty acids may be oxidised by the liver before reaching the skin. This means topical application can be a more efficient route of delivery for skincare applications

The two fatty acids that are most important for skincare are oleic acid (omega-9) and linoleic acid (omega-6)

Linoleic acid is a vital component in normal sebum and does what it is supposed to – protect the skin. Skin/sebum in those prone to acne and other skin problems, have been found to be deficient in linoleic acid. When linoleic acid is not present, or is present at much-reduced levels, sebum is produced with oleic acid only and is more likely to cause follicular blockage and breakout.

Like oleic acid, linoleic acid is anti-inflammatory and helps stimulate cell regeneration but it’s not as penetrating and moisturising as oleic acid and works best when mixed with oleic acid. And “normal” human sebum contains oleic acid.

Some skin facts about linoleic acid

Acne prone skin has abnormally low levels of linoleic acid
Linoleic acid is a component of the ceramides that make skin strong and impermeable and thus less easily ruptured and less sensitive to irritations
Low linoleic acid levels can be changed with topical application
Grape seed, Rosehip and Safflower oils contain >70% linoleic acid
Linoleic acid inhibits the enzymes that convert testosterone to DHT. Both types. So it can help with hirsutism, hairloss and acne (DHT is like a turbocharged testosterone that increases sebum production, leading to oily skin, blocked pores and breakout)
Linoleic acid is anti-inflammatory and protects the skin from UV damage
Linoleic Acid inhibits melanin and thus fades hyperpigmentation
Linoleic acid is antibacertial (controls P. acnes bacteria, which is implicated in acne)
Linoleic acid deficiency causes an increase in Interleukin -1a which is an inflammatory response
Tretinoin (and Retinic A10 etc) alters the lipid profile improving the linoleic acid composition of the skin
Linoleic acid improves the peroxisome proliferator-activated receptors (PPAR) and retinoid X receptor (RXR) situation that regulates sebum production and hyperkeritinisation/differentiation (what Accutane affects)
Linoleic acid is involved in the formation of lamellar granules that produce the enzymes involved in normal exfoliation. They also form the armor that makes your skin strong. Acne prone skin has been found to contain fewer lamellar granules
Ceramide in a deficient skin barrier is lacking a protein called sphingosine. In winter our skin produces less sphingosine which is one reason acne often worsens in winter. Topical application of live cultured yogurt can boost production
Thyroid hormone affects lipid profile. One way that perhaps both hypo- and hyperthyroid conditions affect acne.
We don’t necessarily have a dietary or systemic deficiency in linoleic acid, just in the sebum (a genetic tendency). Therefore a topical application is the best course of action.
Examples of skin problems affected by a deficiency in linoleic acid include acne, eczema, psoriasis, keratosis pilares, hypersensitivity to allergens, and dry itchy sensitive skin of all types-aka dermatitis.

Our approach with linoleic acid

We prefer to use a carefully researched profile of water soluble forms of olive and macadamia oils in our products, to minimise pore clogging and extend product life, whilst delivering high levels of oleic and linoleic acids. OptoDerm products that contain this fatty acid profile are: Deep Cleansing Oil, Deep Cleansing Polish, and all our creams. We add shea butter glycerides, rich in stearic acid, to our cleansing oil products to help remove dirt, sweat and excess sebum from the skin.

Although its a fad at the moment, we do not advocate applying pure oils to the skin. Those rich in linoleic acid are likely to go rancid quite quickly. An example is grapeseed oil, loaded with lots of lovely linoleic and linolenic acid, but with a shelf life of only around three months. Once they go rancid, they can do the opposite of what you intended.

Don’t use coconut oil on your skin. Save it for the salad! 50% of its composition is made up of one ingredient – a long chain fatty acid called Lauric acid. It is extremely pore clogging

Enter the fourth omega

Macadamia Oil also contains palmitoleic acid, an omega-7, monounsaturated fatty acid, which is also made by the body, therefore classified as non-essential. It is an anti-aging antioxidant, found in younger skin, but diminishes as the body ages. Research has suggested that palmitoleic acid could assist in cell rejuvenation to help heal skin and reduce dermatitis and eczema.

30 Aug

Acne CBD Eczema Rosacea

Cannabis And Your Skin

August 30, 2018 Posted by: John Heath

Categories: Acne, CBD, Eczema, Rosacea

Tags: cannabis CBD hemp inflammation

Is it legal?

There are two main varieties of cannabis – cannabis sativa (also known as marijuana, dagga, boom, and a bunch of other names) and cannabis indica (also known as hemp). Hemp is legally grown around the world and used in many industrial products, including textiles. The main active molecule in marijuana is THC, or tetrahydrocannabidiol, a psychoactive molecule that makes you high. Hemp on the other hand, may not legally contain more than 0.03% THC but is otherwise identical. Its main active molecule is CBD, or cannabidiol. CBD has no psychoactive activity but does have many health benefits, the one of interest to us here is skincare. In August last year the DOH downgraded CBD from Schedule 6 to Schedule 4, for internal, therapeutic purposes, ie it is available from doctors on prescription.

We recently launched a CBD Cream with 100mg of hemp-derived CBD, per 50ml jar, specifically for skincare applications. It is not intended as a medicine, to treat or cure any conditions, but more for general skin well-being and not for internal use. It is currently only available through our medical stockists.

So why does CBD have health benefits?

The Endocannabinoid system, or ECM, is a biological system composed of endocannabinoids, which are neurotransmitters that bind to cannabinoid receptors, and cannabinoid receptor proteins that are expressed throughout our central nervous system (including the brain) and peripheral nervous system. It was only discovered in the late 80’s and unfortunately, due to legal constraints, formal research has only recently started, to figure out the real value of compounds like CBD. This recent blog has helped awareness on just how effective CBD can be for the treatment of eczema, an otherwise difficult skin condition to treat.

The skin produces endocannabinoid molecules such as anandamide (AEA) and 2-AG. These endocannabinoids are constantly released in specific amounts, depending on the “healthy need” of the organ, resulting in the skin’s ‘cannabinoid tone’. Since these endocannabinoids can cross the blood-brain barrier, they are able to act on areas of the brain too. Some of us are aware of anandamide, which is produced following strenuous exercise. In the case of anandamide, it produces a euphoric effect, sometimes known as “runner’s high”. Not surprising then that CBD is finding application in treating a multitude of mental and nervous system conditions, such as depression and epilepsy.

The two main receptors in the ECM, are CB1 and CB2, discovered and cloned in the early 90’s. THC binds directly to these receptors, whereas CBD seems to influence them without direct binding. CBD is the mimetic phytocannabinoid of 2-AG, ie CBD functions in exactly the same way as 2-AG, even though it is derived from a plant.

CBD from marijuana, is exactly the same as CBD from hemp

CBD and your skin

Excitingly, CB1 and CB2 receptors have been found in almost every cell type in the skin, from the epidermis, to the dermis to the hypodermis. Endocannabinoid molecules are synthesized by several cell types in the epidermis, hair follicles and sebaceous glands. The skin’s cannabinoid tone constantly affects all compartments of the skin, as endocannabinoids act on various cell types and contribute to their healthy physiological function. Let’s look at just a few:

Keratinocytes

These cells dominate the epidermis and eventually mature and die, forming the “dead” skin surface layer called the stratum corneum. In the process they move to the skin surface and are sloughed off as new keratinocytes are born in the basal layer of the epidermis. This process, in a healthy, young skin, takes on average 27 days. The role of keratinocytes is extremely important since they produce the enzymes and lipids necessary for a healthy skin barrier, hydration and protection from outside dangers. CBD induces the birth of keratinocytes and then, as they mature and differentiate, it assists in switching on the production of key skin elements – enzymes, lipids, filaggrin etc. When keratinocytes mature and start dying, CBD assists them to commit suicide, forming corneocytes in the process. This cellular turnover is vital for a healthy skin. CBD also appears to reduce the growth of keratinocytes that are growing too quickly, that would normally lead to a build-up of scaly cell layers.

Immune Cells

The skin has its own immune system that constantly protects against bacteria, viruses, allergens and other external factors. This system is composed of various immune cell types which either reside inside the skin or ‘invade’ it when danger is sensed. Most importantly, all other skin cell types can join the skin’s immune system to protect and heal the organ when necessary. However, sometimes these immune cells are over-stimulated, leading to inflammation and other skin conditions, such as psoriasis. CBD modulated these immune cells, especially those that are over active and may therefore play a key role in treating inflammatory skin conditions.

Nerves

Each part of the skin is supplied by a huge, dense network of nerve fibres. Sensory nerve endings recognize practically all types of stimuli, which result in the tactile sensations of heat, cold, pressure, vibration, pain and itch. Because of these versatile functions, the skin is considered the largest sensory organ. CBD appears to reduce the sensitivity of hyperactive sensory cells and is especially effective in reducing itching and pain sensations.

Sebum Balance

The physiological cannabinoid tone is also key to the healthy biology of the sebaceous glands. When endocannabinoids or their receptors are not properly produced or functioning, the glands are unable to secrete enough lipid-containing sebum and the waterproof skin barrier may be weakened, increasing the potential for microbes to invade the body. If the cannabinoid tone of the glands is kept in balance, it contributes to homeostasis and healthy skin. And, CBD appears to decrease excessive sebum production too.

unhealthy activity of the skin’s cannabinoid tone likely contributes to the development of highly-prevalent conditions including acne, dry skin, inflammation, eczema and psoriasis

Endocannabinoid deficiency and dysregulation are thought to contribute to a wide array of human diseases. It can be inferred that unhealthy activity of the skin’s cannabinoid tone likely contributes to the development of highly-prevalent conditions including acne, dry skin, inflammation, eczema and psoriasis. CBD is likely to contribute in the future to the treatment of these and other conditions. Our CBD cream is formulated to address all skin conditions relating to poor barrier function, especially eczema and psoriasis. We only use ultra-pure CO₂ extracted CBD, legally imported from the USA and we combine CBD with a soothing dipeptide (N-Acetyl-Tyrosyl-Arginyl-Hexadecyl Ester) that is naturally produced in the body.

Acne

Acne is notorious for being difficult to treat. It often involves the use of retinoids and antibiotics. The acneic skin also tends to become hyper keratolytic, causing dead skin cells to not shed effectively and leading to blocked follicles. This leads to an increase in bacteria and inflammation which causes pimples. Retinoids help by improving the cell turnover which prevents the follicle from getting blocked. Unfortunately, retinoids can make the skin very sensitive and it is often difficult for the patient to stay compliant when using retinoids in the long run. They have many side-effects too. CBD is proving clinically to have a similar effect as retinoids, ie it improves cell differentiation, speeds up the production of new healthy cells and encourages the differentiation and shedding of cells from the skin. CBD also reduces the over production of sebum. Its anti-inflammatory effect improve acne lesions and prevent scarring associated with acne.

CBD shows much of the same activity we associate with vitamin A, the gold standard in skincare. But without the sideffects

Rosacea

Rosacea is another complex skin disease that can be improved with the use of topical CBD. Rosacea is a chronic, incurable inflammatory skin disease that is characteriseds and the long-term complications of those flare ups by improving skin barrier function and reducing inflammation. Rosacea also affects the texture of the skin significantly, so by recommending CBD topically, which has a similar effect in improving cell proliferation as retinoids do, we will improve the texture of the skin in the long run. The use of retinoids is often recommended for rosacea, but due to its sensitizing effect may be uncomfortable for the patient to use. CBD is also highly anti-inflammatory and will reduce the inflammation in a skin prone to rosacea. There are various clinical subtypes of rosacea, and papulopustular rosacea can present with acne like pustules that can cause severe scarring. It is, therefore, necessary to reduce excess sebum production, which CBD does.

Eczema and Psoriasis

CBD has similar benefits for skins that suffer from eczema and psoriasis and is, therefore, an excellent topical product to use for any skin that is affected by poor skin barrier function. It is best combined with our Micellar Cleanser for Sensitive Skin, Deep Cleansing Oil, Bio-Enzyme Gel and Green Tea Serum, all of which assist CBD in drastically improving the skin.

16 Aug

Acne Hyperpigmentation Rosacea

A Force of Nature – Part 2

August 16, 2018 Posted by: John Heath

Categories: Acne, Hyperpigmentation, Rosacea

Tags: acne EGCG Green Tea hyperpigmentation rosacea

As mentioned last week, in Part 1, EGCG is a miracle molecule. Its versatility in treating all skin conditions safely, it’s compatibility with most skin types and its protective benefits makes it the ultimate staple in any skin routine. We discussed aging last week but let’s look at some common skin indications that can be improved safely and effectively by including topical EGCG into your routine:

Acne

Acne is usually caused by a combination of factors including hypersecretion of sebum, inflammation and presence of P.acnes bacteria. Hormonal triggers are very common and there is usually an unbalanced production of androgenic hormones, which are influenced by testosterone and DHT, a super-charged testosterone. Topical ECGC reduces acne lesions in three ways – it reduces the amount of sebum produced (especially when combined with niacinamide, as found in our Balance Cream and Sensitive Micellar Cleanser), inflammation and the viability of P.acnes. The antimicrobial benefits of green tea is a great way to treat any patient that suffers from Acne vulgaris despite their age or the grade of acne.

Rosacea

Rosacea can often be misdiagnosed as acne, due to the fact that it presents with a lot of the same features. This includes acne-like lesions, redness, disturbed barrier function and severe inflammation. The anti-inflammatory benefits of EGCG are particularly helpful in the treatment of rosacea. Another factor that makes it such a great choice is the fact that rosacea is a long-term, chronic and incurable skin disease which means that whatever is prescribed to treat it, must be suitable for long-term use. Green tea catechins will not only drastically decrease the inflammation associated with rosacea but will also improve barrier function and reduce the severity of flare-ups.

Hyperpigmentation

Melasma is a particularly stubborn, resistant and difficult to treat form of hyperpigmentation. There are many external influences on melasma including excess unprotected sun exposure and harsh chemical peels. Melasma is highly influenced by hormonal fluctuations and chronic inflammation, and once it’s there it can be particularly difficult to treat as it has a tendency to reappear even in the cases where it has been treated successfully. EGCG has a long-term beneficial effect on hyperpigmentation as it reduces the damage that occurs to the melanocyte due to sun exposure, the free radical damage is reduced and chronic inflammation is combatted. EGCG has the ability to reduce melanin transfer to the skin cells so it will reduce the overall severity of hyperpigmentation and prevent it from worsening in the long run.

Why drinking green tea isn’t necessarily the best route to getting your daily dose of EGCG

Green tea contains quite a lot of caffeine, approximately 40mg per cup (about half the level of black tea). Catechins make up about 50-100mg per cup, depending on tea plucking season and method, the way it is brewed etc. Of this, EGCG can be as high as 70mg BUT the presence of minerals in water makes a huge difference on the activity of EGCG, especially calcium and magnesium. In areas with hard water, this could mean that most of the EGCG is rendered ineffective.

Then consider what EGCG needs to overcome in the gastrointestinal tract – harsh pH conditions, enzymes and other digestive processes – the so-called “first-pass metabolism”. In fact, this is why EGCG is being used as a dietary supplement. Studies indicate that green tea catechins, particularly EGCG, interfere with the emulsification, digestion, and micellar solubilization of lipids, critical steps involved in the intestinal absorption of dietary fat, cholesterol, and other lipids. Based on the observations, it is likely that green tea or its catechins lower the absorption and tissue accumulation of other lipophilic organic compounds. The available information strongly suggests that green tea or its catechins may be used as effective lipid-lowering therapeutic agents, although over doing it may cause liver damage, even acute liver failure.

Five cups of green tea a day should give you the recommended EGCG dose of 200mg/day. Just remember to use purified water and steep the tea for 3-5 minutes. Any longer won’t extract any further EGCG, it will just increase bitterness. And … preferably use a decaffeinated green tea.

So, the question is: after first-pass metabolism, how much EGCG left to be of benefit to our skin? And, isn’t the direct, topical route better?

Our topical Green Tea Serum is the perfect serum to use in combination with other protocols that address the individual skin conditions mentioned above. It will drastically improve the condition of the skin, whether it is a younger or more mature skin type. EGCG is also the perfect post-procedure product and can be applied after micro-needling procedures and non-ablative laser procedures or chemical peels, to protect the barrier, soothe irritated skin and will speed up the healing process.

With daily use of this hero product, you simply cannot go wrong!

Category: Rosacea