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13 Sep
Acne Aging Hyperpigmentation Vitamins & Minerals

Your Skin Needs Vitamin A

September 13, 2018 Posted by:
Categories: Acne, Aging, Hyperpigmentation, Vitamins & Minerals
Tags:

 

There is much confusion over the range of retinoids available and the meaning of the strength and percentages on product labels. And some manufacturers use this to deliberately mislead consumers…more below

 

There are a few nutrients that skin really needs and vitamin A is definitely one of them. Whether you get it from your diet, or in a topical cream, the protective and nourishing properties of A, and the nutrients your body uses to make it, lend a hand in keeping skin healthy, firm and radiant.

Unlike many other nutrients, vitamin A is a group of compounds that includes its active forms (retinal, retinol and retinoic acid) and other provitamin A carotenoids, like beta-carotene. Beta-carotene is the form of vitamin A that we get directly from the plant foods we eat. Pre-formed, or active forms, are found in animal foods and beta-carotene is converted into the retinol form of vitamin A, inside our bodies.

The first retinoid (tretinoin) was originally FDA approved in 1962 and developed as a powerful prescription acne treatment in the late 1960s. It appeared to work by reducing the ability of the epithelial cells in the hair follicles to stick together, and make the cells divide faster – increasing cell turnover in the outer layers of skin. For patients with acne, this decreased the build-up of keratin which formed blackheads, and improved the health of the skin.

Vitamin A has a wider range of uses because it targets several skin health issues. Dermatologists noticed that patients using tretinoin experienced not just clearer but softer, brighter, skin with less superficial lines. Today there are three prescription-strength retinoids: tretinoin (brands include Atralin, Avita, Retin-A, Renova), tazarotene (Avage, Tazorac, fabior), and adapalene (Differin).

 

What happens when you feed your body vitamin A

  • It protects against UV damage and slows extrinsic aging

Most of your vitamin A intake comes from eating foods rich in beta-carotene and provitamin A carotenoids, which are potent anti-oxidants. Not only do these quench the free radicals that break down collagen and contribute to fine lines and sagging skin, they also lessen skin’s sensitivity to the sun, providing some natural protection against sun-induced redness and pigmentation.

  • It protects against infection and boosts immunity

Vitamin A is important for resistance to infection and a healthy immune system, so a vitamin A deficiency can lead to death from respiratory and other infections. Vitamin A plays a vital role in maintaining your body’s natural defenses, including the mucous barriers in your eyes, lungs, gut and genitals which help trap bacteria and other infectious agents.

It is also involved in the production and function of white blood cells, which help capture and clear bacteria and other pathogens from your bloodstream. This means that a deficiency in vitamin A can increase your susceptibility to infections and delay your recovery when you get sick. In fact, in countries where infections like measles and malaria are common, correcting vitamin A deficiency in children has been shown to decrease the risk of dying from these diseases.

Your skin is the body’s largest organ and an important part of your immune system – your first line of defense against bacteria, pollutants and infection. By promoting keratinocyte turnover in the epidermis, vitamin A helps strengthen the natural lipid barrier, protecting your skin from harmful irritants that attempt to attack the surface.

  • It increases cellular turnover

Retinal, retinol and retinoic acid are important to cell production and growth. Vitamin A thickens and stimulates the dermis, the deeper level of the skin where your collagen, elastin and blood vessels reside. This means it aids blood circulation to the surface of the skin and supports the renewal of skin cells. Vitamin A increases the deposition of collagen and slows the normal aging breakdown of collagen and elastin. Because vitamin A and carotenoids play such a big role in cell and tissue growth, not getting enough can lead to weak, fragile skin, causing problems ranging from dryness, to wounds that heal slower.

  • Protects your vision

Vitamin A helps protect the cornea and it is essential for good vision. A vitamin A deficiency causes damage to the retina, which contributes to blindness. When used in combination with other antioxidant vitamins, it also appears to play a role in decreasing the risk of vision loss from macular degeneration.

  • May lower the risk of certain cancers

In observational studies, eating higher amounts of vitamin A in the form of beta-carotene has been linked to a decreased risk of certain types of cancer, including Hodgkin’s lymphoma, as well as cervical, lung and bladder cancer.

 

How much should you get?

Vitamin A that comes from animal food sources is not water-soluble and therefore is not readily excreted from the body. Instead, it is stored in body fat and, if ingested in excess amounts, can build up in the body and become toxic.

Beta-carotene and other provitamin A carotenoids found in fruits and vegetables don’t pose the same vitamin A toxicity risk. These compounds are water-soluble and are easily eliminated from the body, so vitamin A toxicity from vegetarian food sources is rare.

Beta-carotene supplements, however, may have serious risks for smokers. Two studies have found that smokers taking daily supplements containing 20 to 30 mg of beta-carotene had an increased risk of lung cancer compared with smokers who did not take supplements.

The recommended daily amount of vitamin A is 900 micrograms (ug) for adult men and 700 ug for adult women.

Retinoids can be found in animal products, such as:

  • salmon
  • beef liver (the highest level!)
  • dairy products, such as milk, butter, and cheddar cheese
  • eggs
  • fish
  • cod liver oil
  • prawns

Carotenoids can be found in plant products, such as:

  • carrots (the highest level!)
  • tomatoes
  • sweet potatoes
  • leafy green vegetables
  • fruits, such as mango, apricots, and plums.

Taking more than 10,000 ug a day of oral vitamin A supplements long term can cause:

  • Bone thinning
  • Liver damage
  • Headaches
  • Diarrhea
  • Nausea
  • Skin irritation
  • Pain in the joints and bone
  • Birth defects

The oral acne drug, Accutane (isotretinoin), can be dangerous. It may cause serious side-effects, most notably birth defects. But Accutane is also one of the most effective prescription drugs available for severe acne.

 

The oral drug Accutane may cause serious side-effects, most notably birth defects

 

Why topical vitamin A is better

  • It smoothes wrinkles

Topical vitamin A’s are proven wrinkle-fighters and many dermatologists’ go-to active for anti-aging. Research has shown that these ingredients are able to stimulate collagen production and lessen the effect of the enzymes that degrade it. Retinoids “turn on” fibroblasts to make new collagen, strengthen your skin and fill in fine lines below the surface, so the skin looks smoother.

  • It evens skin tone

Vitamin A creams can help lighten sun-induced brown spots and boost skin radiance in two ways – firstly, by increasing and normalising skin cell turnover, which helps shed pigmented and damaged surface cells, making room for healthier cells. Secondly, retinoids block the enzyme needed for melanin (pigment) production, tyrosinase, further helping to deliver an even-toned, glowing skin.

  • It clears acne

Pimples form when pores become clogged with dead skin cells, bacteria and oil, providing the perfect breeding ground for P.acnes, a common bacteria responsible for blemishes. When vitamin A creams stimulate cell turnover the same process happens within the pores themselves, helping to slow oil production and keep pores clear.

 

But…not all retinoids are created equal

There is much confusion over the range of retinoids available and the meaning of the strength and percentages on product labels. And some manufacturers use this to deliberately mislead consumers (see my additional footnote at the end of this blog for more).

‘Retinoid’ is the generic term for the family of ingredients related to Vitamin A which occur naturally in our bodies. When referring to topically applied retinoids, the only two retinoids that your skin is able to process immediately (ie that cell receptors recognise) are retinoic acid and hydroxypinacolone retinoate (the form we use). All other forms of retinoids have to be converted by skin enzymes into retinoic acid before the skin is able to use them.

 

In reality you would need a 20% concentration of retinol to equal 0.05% tretinoin prescription strength retinoic acid, or the 1% hydroxypinacolone retinoate we use

 

These are the main forms of retinoids used in topical skincare products:

  • Retinol

Retinol is a specific form of vitamin A that is naturally produced in your body. It is often used in over the counter products since it is inexpensive. Non-medical grade Retinol is typically sold in products at the 1% or 2% level, but some products use up to 5%. Don’t confuse this with the 0.05% retinoic acid in tretinoin (or the 1% hydroxypinacolone retinoate we use in Retinic A10). In reality you would need a 20% concentration of retinol to equal 0.05% tretinoin prescription strength retinoic acid, or the 1% hydroxypinacolone retinoate we use.

When applied to your skin, enzymes in your skin convert retinol into retinaldehyde and then into retinoic acid, in a two-part conversion process. The conversion into retinoic acid can take a few days, sometimes weeks, which is why you should use retinol products consistently for a few months before expecting to see results. Count on twelve weeks before seeing results. During this time, much of what you applied will never convert to the active form, since retinol is extremely sensitive to degradation, especially as induced by light.

  • Retinyl palmitate

is the ester of retinol combined with palmitic acid, a saturated fatty acid and a major component of palm oil. Although it absorbs skin better than retinol, it is much weaker, since it must first be converted to retinol before the further conversion steps to retinoic acid can occur. It is therefore somewhat gentler on the skin but the trade-off is efficacy.

  • Retinaldehyde

Also powerful and effective is Retinaldehyde – it has the advantage of having no burn, and also being available without prescription. The disadvantage is that it is expensive when added to skincare products.

  • Retinoic Acid

Medical grade tretinoin, available on prescription only, and you need to develop a tolerance to it since it can burn, itch, scale and peel. Retinoic acid is powerful at the level of 0.05% (brands include Retin-A). Retinoic acid can be used by your skin without having to be converted by skin enzymes. This makes it about 100 times more potent than the average over-the-counter products containing pure retinol. It is used mainly as a prescription drug for severe acne, although some dermatologists prescribe it for patients in a hurry to renew ageing skin and who are willing to tolerate the side-effects.

 

Our form of retinoid leapfrogs all the others

We were the first company in SA to use a new generation of retinoid, called hydroxypinacolone retinoate, in skincare products. This form of retinoid in unique in that, like retinoic acid, it is able to bind directly to retinoid receptors, without needing to undergo enzymatic conversion. As such, its residence time in the skin is lower, since it is able to get to work straight away.  Thanks to our transdermal technology, it is able to penetrate quicker, lowering the irritation factor and potential for inflammatory responses.

So, the order of strengths of the different retinoids, from weakest to strongest, is:

retinyl palmitate < retinol < retinaldehyde < hydroxypinacolone retinoate < retinoic acid < isotretinoin

 

Try a good retinoid on your skin. It may take weeks but you WILL see a difference!

 

Update on 14-09-18:

We had an excellent question from Maryanne (below) concerning Granactive Retinoid. I believe some manufacturers are deliberately misleading consumers with the way they state the concentration of this retinoid. See my answer to her comment below.

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06 Sep
General

Is Your Skin Bored?

September 6, 2018 Posted by:
Categories: General
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I hate bringing bad news, but the effects of your serums do not continue forever. It’s not the serum’s fault. The real culprit is your skin. Skin cells, especially fibroblasts, are like muscles. If you continuously do the same workout routine, your muscles get bored quickly and build up resistance. With a new routine, you feel a good kind of stiff a day or two after, but within a week or two this wears off and the same routine appears to have no effect. The same goes for your skincare.

Skin cells get used to the effects of ingredients and they quickly become bored and unresponsive. We call this the ‘habituation effect’. Habituation is a ‘decreased response that follows repeated stimulus’ and was first described in 1977, with the repeated use of topical steroids used in perioral dermatitis and in psoriasis, where drugs need to be rotated to remain effective.

 

What Can We Learn From Bodybuilders?

 

The late Joe Weider introduced the well-known Weider Principles into weight training routines. He discovered that bodybuilders who trained with regular, fixed routines, achieved poor results compared to those who introduced variation, including rest periods. I believe we can apply some of his principles to skincare.

The one I think most relevant is called the ‘Muscle Confusion Principle’, which was also given the fancy name of ‘the undulating periodization program’. This involves constantly changing variables in your workout, such as which days you train, how many days per week, number of sets, number of reps, exercise choice, exercise order, and the length of rest periods. This variation was designed to keep your muscles guessing – resting and shocking them at different times and on different days. For more info see here.

 

What the heck has this got to do with skincare, you ask?

 

Most of us have busy and stressful lifestyles. It’s no wonder that we feel tired all the time. You know what else is exhausted? Your skin.

While skin exhaustion might sound far-fetched, it’s a common problem. Looking run-down is a real, clinical condition. If you look in the mirror and see your skin isn’t looking its best, chances are you’re suffering from tired skin. Tired skin gives you the overall appearance of being exhausted and overwhelmed. Unlike other common skin issues, there’s no specific indicator that tells you that you do in fact have skin exhaustion, but indicators are a complexion that appears dull and lack luster, has larger pores, deeper wrinkles and crow’s feet. Skin exhaustion takes whatever your existing skin issues are and magnifies them by a thousand. And it doesn’t take long to see these changes in your skin—one morning you wake up and there it is. Not a great way to start the day.

 

The Flat Battery

 

The reason your skin starts looking like this in the first place is simple. Essentially, your skin’s battery isn’t charged. Skin cells contain mitochondria, which power everything from collagen production, to fighting off dullness-causing free radicals, to producing the enzymes that naturally exfoliate the skin, or the natural moisturising factors that keep your skin hydrated etc.

As we age, that battery starts to deplete, meaning your skin doesn’t have the energy to replenish and regenerate like it used to. It’s like a mobile phone battery that no longer holds its charge, especially one that has been kept on charge all the time and no longer remembers how to function as a battery. Sometimes you need to let it drain down, before you put it on charge again. Other factors like too much stress, not enough sleep, one too many glasses of wine and even the environment, can speed up cellular energy drainage. To keep your skin firing on all cylinders, you need to protect these mitochondria from harmful free radicals, to repair any damage that’s already been done and ‘recharge’ them with the right ‘foods’.

The problem is that serums usually act on keratinocytes and fibroblasts –  they often contain actives (eg peptides) that bind to receptors on these cells’ surfaces, and request them to either start doing something, or stop doing something. All of this consumes energy and may lead to cellular exhaustion, where the cell basically shuts down. This is especially true if they are being bombarded with different actives all the time, each of which is making its own demands on the cell. A bit like trying to answer five phones at the same time. And procedures like microneedling, peels etc, increase the energy demand on cells too. These procedures stress cells, especially keratinocytes. Before we know it they scream for help, their neighbouring melanocytes declare an emergency and bingo…post inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

 

There is a solution!

 

At OptoDerm, we make products that contain energy-boosting ingredients like niacinamide, ribose, inositol, amino acids, alpha-ketoglutarate, vitamin C, superoxide dismutase etc. Most of these are in our micellar cleansers, serums and creams. These are energy sources and antioxidants that help neutralise the free radicals that the mitochondria are spending all their time fighting and instead allow them to do what they do best – keeping your skin looking good. The best part is they not only work well, but they work quickly. While skin exhaustion might appear overnight, these ingredients can revive your skin in a matter of hours. We will be introducing a new product in the next two weeks, specifically aimed at recharging your mitochondria. It is a product that is best used with our cleansers only, over a weekend, say. More to follow.

But, outside of cleansing and exfoliation, there is a need to vary your routine in order to avoid habituation effects. Try rotating your serums and moisturisers – alternate your retinoid with Collastin, Green Tea Serum, or Vitamin C. Perhaps rotate randomly every few days. Use only Bio-Enzyme Gel one or two nights a week. Give your skin a break a couple of days a week, to recharge – try something different on weekends, eg a mask or exfoliator. Keep your skin guessing! And while you are at it, look at making lifestyle changes too. Read up on intermittent fasting and other diets (like 5:2) that also look to break habituation effects.

 

What other factors might make my products seem less effective?

 

  • Shelf life of active ingredients

Products that have positive effects on our skin contain active ingredients and have a limited shelf life which means they degrade and lose their potency over time. Some ingredients like vitamin C can be so unstable that they oxidise when they come into contact with light and air, causing the product to become less effective. At OptoDerm we use airless containers as far as possible, to prevent exposure to air. We also photo-protect as many products as possible, with ingredients that protect sensitive actives. Store your products in a cool, dark place as far as possible. The label usually states this but how many of us actually do it?

 

  • Product contamination

Some products are not well packaged and may be easily contaminated during use. When this happens, the product becomes ineffective and, worst case, may cause problems when used. Airless containers overcome this issue. We especially avoid packaging in jars that expose products to air and contamination sources.

 

  • Ineffective preservatives

Most commercial skincare products contain preservatives and stabilisers to prolong shelf life and prevent them from harboring unwanted bacteria and fungi. However, these preservatives and stabilisers have a limited shelf life themselves, which can render the active ingredients inactive before the product is fully used up.

 

  • Build up of occlusive ingredients

Ingredients like mineral oil, petrolatum and silicones generally act as a barrier and clog skin pores. Even though a product may not contain a lot of these ingredients, they may build up on your skin and prevent active ingredients, especially those layered over them, from penetrating properly. Look out for ingredients like dimethicone, as potential problems. We do not use any silicones in our products.

How will you know if you have this issue? Easy…you will notice ‘pilling’ on your skin ie when you rub your skin, bits of product will roll off. Its like the fluffy balls you sometimes get on your favorite sweater. You have one of these three problems –  build-up on your skin, or you are applying too much product, or the product contains (usually) dimethicone.

 

  • Changes in product formulation

Sometimes products don’t seem so effective because of changes in product formulation. We only ever make formulation changes to improve efficacy, never to save money. But, we also rely on our suppliers to be truthful in what they supply us and we are extremely fussy when it comes to how our suppliers handle actives, especially those that require cold-chain logistics. Many of our suppliers tell me we are fussier than any of our competitors when it comes to this. Frankly, I wear that as a badge of honor!

 

  • Changes to your skincare routine

If you introduce new products into your skin care regime, you might suddenly find your usual products not working as well. Perhaps the ingredients clash with one another, such as copper peptides and vitamin C, or niacinamide and vitamin C, or your usual cleanser is not cleaning your face as well as usual, due to a new sunscreen you’ve introduced. And, when introducing a new product, you may also experience ‘skin purging’ where you experience breakout. Moenie worrie…this is usually normal. It can take a while for your skin to adjust to new products.

 

  • Changes in your body

Hormonal changes may show up on your skin (menstruation, pregnancy, or menopause). Stress from work or school, or changes in diet and lifestyle also affect your skin.

 

  • Changes in your environment

Related to the changes in our skin, is change in season, weather and the environment. Something that worked well during the drier months may suddenly break you out when used during warmer months . Likewise, a light moisturizer that worked well under hot and humid weather might suddenly be inadequate when you move to a place with colder and/or drier conditions (eg winter in Gauteng which is cold and dry).

You may be in a new work environment with air conditioning that dries the air, or under fluorescent lights, LED lights, TV, phone and computer screens that radiate harmful blue light (this is becoming a big factor in skincare at the moment).

 

Don’t be afraid to experiment and remember: Your skin is an investment not an expense!

 

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30 Aug
Acne CBD Eczema Rosacea

Cannabis And Your Skin

August 30, 2018 Posted by:
Categories: Acne, CBD, Eczema, Rosacea
Tags:

 

Is it legal?

There are two main varieties of cannabis – cannabis sativa (also known as marijuana, dagga, boom, and a bunch of other names) and cannabis indica (also known as hemp). Hemp is legally grown around the world and used in many industrial products, including textiles. The main active molecule in marijuana is THC, or tetrahydrocannabidiol, a psychoactive molecule that makes you high. Hemp on the other hand, may not legally contain more than 0.03% THC but is otherwise identical. Its main active molecule is CBD, or cannabidiol. CBD has no psychoactive activity but does have many health benefits, the one of interest to us here is skincare. In August last year the DOH downgraded CBD from Schedule 6 to Schedule 4, for internal, therapeutic purposes, ie it is available from doctors on prescription.

 

We recently launched a CBD Cream with 100mg of hemp-derived CBD, per 50ml jar, specifically for skincare applications. It is not intended as a medicine, to treat or cure any conditions, but more for general skin well-being and not for internal use. It is currently only available through our medical stockists.

 

So why does CBD have health benefits?

 

The Endocannabinoid system, or ECM, is a biological system composed of endocannabinoids, which are neurotransmitters that bind to cannabinoid receptors, and cannabinoid receptor proteins that are expressed throughout our central nervous system (including the brain) and peripheral nervous system. It was only discovered in the late 80’s and unfortunately, due to legal constraints, formal research has only recently started, to figure out the real value of compounds like CBD. This recent blog has helped awareness on just how effective CBD can be for the treatment of eczema, an otherwise difficult skin condition to treat.

 

The skin produces endocannabinoid molecules such as anandamide (AEA) and 2-AG. These endocannabinoids are constantly released in specific amounts, depending on the “healthy need” of the organ, resulting in the skin’s ‘cannabinoid tone’. Since these endocannabinoids can cross the blood-brain barrier, they are able to act on areas of the brain too. Some of us are aware of anandamide, which is produced following strenuous exercise. In the case of anandamide, it produces a euphoric effect, sometimes known as “runner’s high”. Not surprising then that CBD is finding application in treating a multitude of mental and nervous system conditions, such as depression and epilepsy.

 

The two main receptors in the ECM, are CB1 and CB2, discovered and cloned in the early 90’s. THC binds directly to these receptors, whereas CBD seems to influence them without direct binding. CBD is the mimetic phytocannabinoid of 2-AG, ie CBD functions in exactly the same way as 2-AG, even though it is derived from a plant.

 

CBD from marijuana, is exactly the same as CBD from hemp

 

CBD and your skin

 

Excitingly, CB1 and CB2 receptors have been found in almost every cell type in the skin, from the epidermis, to the dermis to the hypodermis. Endocannabinoid molecules are synthesized by several cell types in the epidermis, hair follicles and sebaceous glands. The skin’s cannabinoid tone constantly affects all compartments of the skin, as endocannabinoids act on various cell types and contribute to their healthy physiological function. Let’s look at just a few:

 

Keratinocytes

 

These cells dominate the epidermis and eventually mature and die, forming the “dead” skin surface layer called the stratum corneum. In the process they move to the skin surface and are sloughed off as new keratinocytes are born in the basal layer of the epidermis. This process, in a healthy, young skin, takes on average 27 days. The role of keratinocytes is extremely important since they produce the enzymes and lipids necessary for a healthy skin barrier, hydration and protection from outside dangers. CBD induces the birth of keratinocytes and then, as they mature and differentiate, it assists in switching on the production of key skin elements – enzymes, lipids, filaggrin etc. When keratinocytes mature and start dying, CBD assists them to commit suicide, forming corneocytes in the process. This cellular turnover is vital for a healthy skin. CBD also appears to reduce the growth of keratinocytes that are growing too quickly, that would normally lead to a build-up of scaly cell layers.

 

Immune Cells

 

The skin has its own immune system that constantly protects against bacteria, viruses, allergens and other external factors. This system is composed of various immune cell types which either reside inside the skin or ‘invade’ it when danger is sensed. Most importantly, all other skin cell types can join the skin’s immune system to protect and heal the organ when necessary. However, sometimes these immune cells are over-stimulated, leading to inflammation and other skin conditions, such as psoriasis. CBD modulated these immune cells, especially those that are over active and may therefore play a key role in treating inflammatory skin conditions.

 

Nerves

 

Each part of the skin is supplied by a huge, dense network of nerve fibres. Sensory nerve endings recognize practically all types of stimuli, which result in the tactile sensations of heat, cold, pressure, vibration, pain and itch. Because of these versatile functions, the skin is considered the largest sensory organ. CBD appears to reduce the sensitivity of hyperactive sensory cells and is especially effective in reducing itching and pain sensations.

 

Sebum Balance

 

The physiological cannabinoid tone is also key to the healthy biology of the sebaceous glands. When endocannabinoids or their receptors are not properly produced or functioning, the glands are unable to secrete enough lipid-containing sebum and the waterproof skin barrier may be weakened, increasing the potential for microbes to invade the body. If the cannabinoid tone of the glands is kept in balance, it contributes to homeostasis and healthy skin. And, CBD appears to decrease excessive sebum production too.

 

unhealthy activity of the skin’s cannabinoid tone likely contributes to the development of highly-prevalent conditions including acne, dry skin, inflammation, eczema and psoriasis

 

Endocannabinoid deficiency and dysregulation are thought to contribute to a wide array of human diseases. It can be inferred that unhealthy activity of the skin’s cannabinoid tone likely contributes to the development of highly-prevalent conditions including acne, dry skin, inflammation, eczema and psoriasis. CBD is likely to contribute in the future to the treatment of these and other conditions. Our CBD cream is formulated to address all skin conditions relating to poor barrier function, especially eczema and psoriasis. We only use ultra-pure CO2 extracted CBD, legally imported from the USA and we combine CBD with a soothing dipeptide (N-Acetyl-Tyrosyl-Arginyl-Hexadecyl Ester) that is naturally produced in the body.

 

Acne

 

Acne is notorious for being difficult to treat. It often involves the use of retinoids and antibiotics. The acneic skin also tends to become hyper keratolytic, causing dead skin cells to not shed effectively and leading to blocked follicles. This leads to an increase in bacteria and inflammation which causes pimples. Retinoids help by improving the cell turnover which prevents the follicle from getting blocked. Unfortunately, retinoids can make the skin very sensitive and it is often difficult for the patient to stay compliant when using retinoids in the long run. They have many side-effects too. CBD is proving clinically to have a similar effect as retinoids, ie it improves cell differentiation, speeds up the production of new healthy cells and encourages the differentiation and shedding of cells from the skin. CBD also reduces the over production of sebum. Its anti-inflammatory effect improve acne lesions and prevent scarring associated with acne.

 

CBD shows much of the same activity we associate with vitamin A, the gold standard in skincare. But without the sideffects

 

Rosacea

 

Rosacea is another complex skin disease that can be improved with the use of topical CBD. Rosacea is a chronic, incurable inflammatory skin disease that is characteriseds and the long-term complications of those flare ups by improving skin barrier function and reducing inflammation. Rosacea also affects the texture of the skin significantly, so by recommending CBD topically, which has a similar effect in improving cell proliferation as retinoids do, we will improve the texture of the skin in the long run. The use of retinoids is often recommended for rosacea, but due to its sensitizing effect may be uncomfortable for the patient to use. CBD is also highly anti-inflammatory and will reduce the inflammation in a skin prone to rosacea. There are various clinical subtypes of rosacea, and papulopustular rosacea can present with acne like pustules that can cause severe scarring. It is, therefore, necessary to reduce excess sebum production, which CBD does.

 

Eczema and Psoriasis

 

CBD has similar benefits for skins that suffer from eczema and psoriasis and is, therefore, an excellent topical product to use for any skin that is affected by poor skin barrier function. It is best combined with our Micellar Cleanser for Sensitive Skin, Deep Cleansing Oil, Bio-Enzyme Gel and Green Tea Serum, all of which assist CBD in drastically improving the skin.

 

 

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23 Aug
Acne

Acne 101

August 23, 2018 Posted by:
Categories: Acne
Tags:

 

It might sound crazy, but if you do have acne, your phone screen touching your face is a great way to spread P.acnes bacteria…more below

Acne Vulgaris is a skin disease that affects most people at some point in their lives. It usually starts at puberty, affects both men and women and is more common in certain racial groups. It affects mostly the face, back and chest – areas with the highest concentration of oil glands (called sebaceous glands). Acne can, and does, run in families. Clinical history is one way to determine the root causes of acne and can give insights into one’s tendency to develop it.

 

What causes it?

Acne is influenced by many factors, of which hormonal fluctuations is the most common. It affects the pilosebaceous unit which attaches to our hair follicles and affects both the epidermis and the dermis. Sebum is a necessary component in skin health but when over secreted, it can cause acne. Sebum production is influenced by androgenic hormones, which are influenced by the hormone testosterone (and, yes, women also make testosterone!). Conventional treatment aims to stabilize these hormones to reduce acne, but unfortunately, it is only one factor that affects the sebaceous gland. Females often have an underlying reproductive disorder, such as polycystic ovarian syndrome. It is advisable to consult a medical professional to eliminate possible health conditions which could contribute to the problem, especially if there are other symptoms present. Certain medications can also cause acne.

 

Other factors include the skin’s barrier function, skin care habits, lifestyle and diet. When the acidity of our skin’s acid mantle is compromised, it does not have the ability to combat bacteria and irritants that may gain access to the skin. A deficiency of natural lipids and hydration may also affect the skins ability to shed dead skin cells effectively. This blocks pores, causing blackheads. It is common for acne sufferers to use harsh cleansers, which strip the skin of its natural lipids and reduce the efficacy of the acid mantle. This leads to a compromised barrier, the ideal environment for bacteria to flourish in. Avoid foaming cleansers with anionic surfactants, like SLS (Sodium Lauryl/Laureth Sulphate). These complex with minerals in tap water (‘hard’ water), forming insoluble compounds that clog pores. If there is a dirty ring around your bath after you empty it, then you are in an area with hard water and using SLS-based cleansers on your face, WILL clog your pores. Furthermore, this type of cleanser destroys the skins natural lipid barrier, leaving your skin feeling tight. In a previous blog we discussed the concept of ‘active’ cleansers. Our Micellar Sensitive Cleanser is fortified with actives that fight acne – niacinamide, NAG and caffeine. It does not disturb the natural lipid barrier and is made with purified water.

If there is a dirty ring around your bath after you empty it, then you are in an area with hard water and using SLS-based cleansers on your face, WILL clog your pores

Our Deep Cleansing Oil contains several beneficial ingredients to combat acne, such as macadamia oil glycerides, shea butter and olive oil esters. This combination is most similar to that of normal, healthy skin sebum. It facilitates the removal of excess sebum (and even waterproof makeup) and restores the lipid balance in the skin, even on oily skins. Linoleic acid is the key active ingredient that combats acne. Linoleic acid is a naturally occurring fatty acid that is present in sebum but acneic skin almost always lacks linoleic acid. It is antibacterial, highly anti-inflammatory and improves skin barrier function.

 

Four factors are always present with acne vulgaris

  • Hyperproliferation of epidermal cells (cells duplicate rapidly and they don’t shed off when they should)
  • Excess sebum production (influenced by hormones)
  • Presence of Propionibacterium acnes or P.acne’s bacteria (influenced by excess sebum, poor skin barrier function and too high skin pH)
  • Inflammation

 

The approach to treating acne has changed over the years and although there is still a need to treat certain types of acne with medication, targeting acne during its early stages with a specific combination of active ingredients, can prevent it from escalating. Treating the skin gently, to preserve the barrier function is the best approach. And it all starts with a good cleansing routine.

 

The next step in ensuring the effective treatment of acne is in using treatment products that reduce sebum production, reduce bacteria and restore barrier function by reducing inflammation. Acne prone skins are particularly at risk of oxidative damage due to free radicals. Often adolescents who suffer with acne may also develop hyperpigmentation when they are older.  We can combat this by using Green Tea Serum. This contains green tea extract, a powerful antioxidant which is highly anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and will target excess pigment production as well (as discussed last week in our blog). Our Balance cream is ideal for normal and oily skins. It can be used morning and evening and although it has powerful ingredients, it still preserves the skins natural protection mechanisms. It contains niacinamide, NAG and caffeine, all excellent for reducing breakouts and inflammation. These ingredients also assist in the treatment of post-acne hyperpigmentation which is especially common in darker skins. Other useful tools to fight acne are Vitamin A (our Retinic A10) and Vitamin C (our Vitamin C serum).

 

Advice (especially) for darker skins

 

  1. Leave pimples alone

It’s common knowledge that aggravating your acne can prolong healing, but for ethnic skin it can be even worse, because post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) is easy to induce in darker skins. This causes patches of skin to be darker. Picking at blemishes can cause PIH and scars that may take months, even years to fade.

 

  1. Use medication cautiously

Some of the most harmful products for ethnic skin can be found in common medications for treating acne. They’re found in many cleansers, skincare products, and acne treatments because they kill the bacteria under the skin, but, for ethnic skins, these common chemicals can be harmful. Benzoyl peroxide, for example, can be especially irritating for darker skin. Salicylic acid can sometimes dry skin out too much, causing it to create more oil. Seek professional help and check with a dermatologist — one that’s experienced in different ethnicities and skin types.

 

  1. Get sun but protect yourself from harmful UV radiation

It’s a myth that darker skins don’t need sun protection. Half an hour of healthy sun exposure can help heal acne, but that exposure should be SPF protected to avoid increasing your risk of skin cancer.

 

  1. Keep your pores clear

When buying products, think about your pores. Before you pick up that new moisturizer or foundation, read the labels to see if it’s non-comedogenic, which means it won’t clog your pores.

 

  1. Check your hair products

If you’re taking good care of your skin but still breaking out, examine the other beauty products in your bathroom. Some hair products, like pomade, gels and hair oils, may be great for our hair, but not for our skin. So, if your breakouts are around the hairline, they may be to blame. Similarly, if breakouts are popping up on your cheeks or on certain sides of your face, it could be because the hair products left on your pillow. Washing your pillow cases more often and covering your hair at night may help.

 

  1. Clean your phone

It might sound crazy, but if you do have acne, the screen touching your face is a great way to spread P.acnes bacteria. Keep your screen clean to avoid spreading the bacteria. Ideally use an alcohol wipe. See this blog for more.

 

Next week we will discuss CBD, the legal “medical” component of cannabis and what it can do for your skin.

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16 Aug
Acne Hyperpigmentation Rosacea

A Force of Nature – Part 2

August 16, 2018 Posted by:
Categories: Acne, Hyperpigmentation, Rosacea
Tags:

As mentioned last week, in Part 1, EGCG is a miracle molecule. Its versatility in treating all skin conditions safely, it’s compatibility with most skin types and its protective benefits makes it the ultimate staple in any skin routine. We discussed aging last week but let’s look at some common skin indications that can be improved safely and effectively by including topical EGCG into your routine:

 

Acne

Acne is usually caused by a combination of factors including hypersecretion of sebum, inflammation and presence of P.acnes bacteria. Hormonal triggers are very common and there is usually an unbalanced production of androgenic hormones, which are influenced by testosterone and DHT, a super-charged testosterone.  Topical ECGC reduces acne lesions in three ways – it reduces the amount of sebum produced (especially when combined with niacinamide, as found in our Balance Cream and Sensitive Micellar Cleanser), inflammation and the viability of P.acnes. The antimicrobial benefits of green tea is a great way to treat any patient that suffers from Acne vulgaris despite their age or the grade of acne.

 

Rosacea

Rosacea can often be misdiagnosed as acne, due to the fact that it presents with a lot of the same features. This includes acne-like lesions, redness, disturbed barrier function and severe inflammation. The anti-inflammatory benefits of EGCG are particularly helpful in the treatment of rosacea. Another factor that makes it such a great choice is the fact that rosacea is a long-term, chronic and incurable skin disease which means that whatever is prescribed to treat it, must be suitable for long-term use. Green tea catechins will not only drastically decrease the inflammation associated with rosacea but will also improve barrier function and reduce the severity of flare-ups.

 

Hyperpigmentation

Melasma is a particularly stubborn, resistant and difficult to treat form of hyperpigmentation. There are many external influences on melasma including excess unprotected sun exposure and harsh chemical peels. Melasma is highly influenced by hormonal fluctuations and chronic inflammation, and once it’s there it can be particularly difficult to treat as it has a tendency to reappear even in the cases where it has been treated successfully. EGCG has a long-term beneficial effect on hyperpigmentation as it reduces the damage that occurs to the melanocyte due to sun exposure, the free radical damage is reduced and chronic inflammation is combatted. EGCG has the ability to reduce melanin transfer to the skin cells so it will reduce the overall severity of hyperpigmentation and prevent it from worsening in the long run.

 

Why drinking green tea isn’t necessarily the best route to getting your daily dose of EGCG

Green tea contains quite a lot of caffeine, approximately 40mg per cup (about half the level of black tea). Catechins make up about 50-100mg per cup, depending on tea plucking season and method, the way it is brewed etc. Of this, EGCG can be as high as 70mg BUT the presence of minerals in water makes a huge difference on the activity of EGCG, especially calcium and magnesium. In areas with hard water, this could mean that most of the EGCG is rendered ineffective.

Then consider what EGCG needs to overcome in the gastrointestinal tract – harsh pH conditions, enzymes and other digestive processes – the so-called “first-pass metabolism”. In fact, this is why EGCG is being used as a dietary supplement. Studies indicate that green tea catechins, particularly EGCG, interfere with the emulsification, digestion, and micellar solubilization of lipids, critical steps involved in the intestinal absorption of dietary fat, cholesterol, and other lipids. Based on the observations, it is likely that green tea or its catechins lower the absorption and tissue accumulation of other lipophilic organic compounds. The available information strongly suggests that green tea or its catechins may be used as effective lipid-lowering therapeutic agents, although over doing it may cause liver damage, even acute liver failure.

Five cups of green tea a day should give you the recommended EGCG dose of 200mg/day. Just remember to use purified water and steep the tea for 3-5 minutes. Any longer won’t extract any further EGCG, it will just increase bitterness. And … preferably use a decaffeinated green tea.

So, the question is: after first-pass metabolism, how much EGCG left to be of benefit to our skin? And, isn’t the direct, topical route better?

Our topical Green Tea Serum is the perfect serum to use in combination with other protocols that address the individual skin conditions mentioned above. It will drastically improve the condition of the skin, whether it is a younger or more mature skin type. EGCG is also the perfect post-procedure product and can be applied after micro-needling procedures and non-ablative laser procedures or chemical peels, to protect the barrier, soothe irritated skin and will speed up the healing process.

With daily use of this hero product, you simply cannot go wrong!

 

 

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10 Aug
Aging

A Force of Nature – Part 1

August 10, 2018 Posted by:
Categories: Aging
Tags:

Green Tea – apart from water, the most consumed beverage in the world, is well known for its many health benefits. Green tea is a superfood and is well known for being an antioxidant superstar. It is perhaps the most effective natural protection against certain cancers and is quickly becoming known for the incredible and diverse benefits it has for the skin.

 

The main active ingredient in green tea is known as epigallocatechin gallate, or EGCG, a type of catechin, or polyphenol. It is most known for being a powerful free radical scavenger and is roughly 100 times more powerful than vitamin C. One of the major contributing factors to skin ageing is free radical damage. If we can combat free radical damage, we can delay the ageing process significantly, and reverse existing signs of ageing from the skin.

 

The cellular ageing process involves 4 stages – oxidative stress, lipid peroxidation, mitochondria damage and cellular senescence. Free radicals are responsible for setting this process in motion. Extrinsic ageing is due to factors which cause ageing to accelerate and that come from outside the body. Our bodies are naturally equipped with antioxidants like superoxide dismutase (SOD), that act as free radical scavengers, but due to sheer volume of free radicals that are produced in our bodies, our own natural antioxidants are unable to fight off all free radical damage. Although oxygen is a molecule that is indispensable to life, under the right circumstances it can be detrimental to life. A free radical can be defined as any molecular species capable of independent existence that contains an unpaired electron in its atomic orbital. These are highly reactive species capable of in the nucleus and the other membranes of the cells damaging biologically relevant molecules such as DNA, proteins, carbohydrates and lipids. Free radicals and other reactive oxygen species (ROS) are derived either from normal metabolic processes, or from external sources such as X rays, cigarettes, pollution, industrial chemicals and UV radiation. Internal triggers of free radicals include inflammation, mitochondria, phagocytosis, exercise etc.

 

Oxidative stress is a term used to describe the condition of oxidative damage resulting when the balance between free radical generation and antioxidant defence is unfavourable. This means that the body’s own antioxidant protection has not been enough and external supplementation with antioxidants are necessary for optimal protection. When oxidative stress is left untreated, lipid peroxidation sets in. As oxidative stress causes destruction of lipids, essential fatty acids and vitamins, our cell membranes are left vulnerable to free radical damage, and, of course, skin hydration issues. When these components are destroyed, the cell membrane (which controls active and passive transfer of substances in and out of the cell) becomes more permeable. Apart from loss of water (and natural moisturising factors), this means that free radicals gain access to the cell’s interior, leading to damage in the cell’s mitochondria.

 

Mitochondria are like little batteries and provide energy for cells. They play another important role – to initiate cell death in damaged cells. If damaged cells are left untreated, they may become senescent, or cancerous. Senescent cells are cells that have lost their ability to replicate and perform their normal functions. If, for instance, a fibroblast has reached cellular senescence, it will no longer produce the skin’s building blocks – collagen, elastin, fibronectin and hyaluronic acid.

 

Many studies have been done on the effect of EGCG on oxidative stress and cellular ageing. These findings suggest that ECGC can resist cellular senescence significantly and even reactivate and restore senescent cells. EGCG also has the ability to restore damage done to the DNA of cells. This means that green tea used topically, on a daily basis, may protect our skins from all forms of ageing and restore normal cell functioning in a skin that has significant signs of extrinsic ageing.

 

OptoDerm’s Green Tea Mask and Serum contain ‘vectorised’ green tea catechins. Vectorising is a process that makes them more acceptable to the skin, so they penetrate the stratum corneum easier. Green Tea Serum contains roughly double the amount of catechins as Green Tea Mask and should be used daily as an antioxidant and support for all skins. It contains ‘skin similar’ phospholipids and is designed as a leave-on product. Green Tea Mask contains additional soothing peptides and is ideal when used on a weekly basis or as a post procedure treatment in the clinic.

 

In our next blog post well look at the various ways in which we can use these products to benefit other skin conditions. We’ll also discuss why drinking green tea alone is not enough.

 

 

 

 

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