Vitamin C Serum

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP) is a naturally occurring water-soluble derivative of Vitamin C. It is the most stable form of Vitamin C, meaning it won’t oxidise easily and is more stable and bioavailable than Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP), Ascorbyl Palmitate, and L-Ascorbic Acid (amongst other Vitamin C derivatives). Unlike L-Ascorbic Acid, it doesn’t like acidic environments and prefers a ‘skin friendly’ pH of around 7. It is an antioxidant that reduces oxidative stress by neutralizing free radicals, effectively slowing down the aging process and the formation of fine lines and wrinkles. It is more bioavailable than pure vitamin C since it has a salt molecule attached to it, allowing it to easily penetrate the skin’s lipid barrier. Because this form of Vitamin C is easily absorbed and utilised by the skin, it is not associated with the irritation often experienced with L-ascorbic acid. Our proprietary PenetrX technology facilitates even better and quicker penetration. Furthermore, a lower concentration is needed for the same results, which also leads to less irritation. We use 15% SAP in OptoDerm Vitamin C Serum, which is equivalent to a much higher concentration of L-ascorbic acid, due to its increased bioavailablity. Proline and Lysine are converted to hydroxyproline and hydroxylysine in the skin – a reaction facilitated by ascorbic acid. These are important molecules in the formation and stability of collagen and elastin respectively.

A few studies that have measured the acne-fighting benefits of SAP:

In an in vitro study, researchers were able to show that a 1% concentration of SAP has strong antimicrobial effects against acne for 8 hours. The same researchers also found that 5% SAP lotion used for 12 weeks produced excellent results in 76.9% of patients, which is considerably higher than other prescribed acne treatments. Best of all, it treats acne with no side effects.

For decades scientists have known that lipid peroxidation (the oxidation of sebum) plays a MAJOR role in the development of acne. There is evidence that “lipid peroxidation” is the driving force behind the progression of comedogenesis and inflammation in acne. Research has shown that SAP reduces sebum oxidation by up to 40%. The oxidised by-products of human sebum are hugely problematic for skin. Effectively, they are what leads to acne and skin aging. For example, squalene peroxide leads to comedogenesis (clogged pores), contributes to the development of inflammatory acne and possibly wrinkling. This can occur for all kinds of reasons – ozone, sun exposure (particularly long UVA rays), cigarette smoke, natural yeast (like malassezia) that live on our skin, environmental pollution etc – all powerful oxidising agents of skin oils.

Moreover, other clinical trials have shown SAP has better efficacy than 5% benzoyl peroxide, 1% clindamycin phosphate, 0.1% adapalene (aka Differin)